Dessert Surveillance

Jan 05 2015

Dessert Wish List

Grilled Coffee Cake from Southport Grocery and Cafe

Grilled Coffee Cake from Southport Grocery and Café – Photo Courtesy of Southport Grocery and Café (Chicago)

Around this time last year I devoted a posting to favorite desserts of mine that, sadly, are no longer available. I’ll be more optimistic this year, and instead, will focus on desserts which I hope will start receiving the attention they deserve.

Here’s my Dessert Wish List:

Buttercup Bake Shop’s Blueberry Coffee Cake – Photo Courtesy of Buttercup Bake Shop (NYC)

Coffee Cake: It’s funny—when I was younger I didn’t give Coffee Cake a second glance. It was the rich, fancy desserts that captured my fancy. While I still enjoy gooey desserts, now I often find myself craving Coffee Cake. And lest anyone think Coffee Cake is only a “Plain Jane” dessert, the image at the top of this posting, of Southport Grocery’s Grilled Coffee Cake, shows that Coffee Cake can certainly be gussied up. My wish is to see Coffee Cake appear more frequently on restaurant/bakery menus and to change its image—from that of a brunch/breakfast food only to one of a Dessert that can be enjoyed any time. (Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on Coffee Cake.)

Graeter’s Mocha Chocolate Chip Ice Cream – Photo Courtesy of Graeter’s (Cincinnati)

Coffee-Based Desserts: Granted, this is a very broad category, encompassing Coffee Ice Cream, Mocha Cake, Espresso Cookies and Biscotti, Chocolate Bars with Coffee, and much more. In addition to relishing the jolt from the java, I adore the taste of Coffee, and think it enhances most desserts. One of my favorite Coffee Desserts is Graeter’s Mocha Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. Since Coffee pairs so beautifully with so many dessert ingredients, my wish is for the rich tang of Coffee to be found in all manner of desserts—from fancy pastries to homey Chocolate Chip Cookies and Brownies to luxurious cream-based Desserts.

A Slice of Tres Leches Cake from Ruggles Cafe Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Ruggles Cafe Bakery (Houston)

Tres Leches Cake: I can’t overlook one of my favorite Milk/Cream-based Desserts—Tres Leches Cake, a Cake made with three different types of Milk/Cream. It’s one of these simple Desserts that’s just amazing. Of course it can be spruced up so it’s no longer simple. My all-time favorite Tres Leches Cake sported a Cheesecake layer, in addition to a Raspberry filling. And, unfortunately, it’s no longer available at my local Mexican restaurant although a Salted Caramel Tres Leches Cake is on the menu. My wish is for Tres Leches Cakes to be available at most bakeries and restaurants.

Tiny Tarts from Dufflet Pastries – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

Smaller-Size Portions of Desserts: Anyone who reads the Dessert Surveillance blog knows that I’m a Dessert Glutton—I just love Desserts and can’t get enough of them. To prevent my cholesterol level and weight from skyrocketing, I try to ration my dessert intake. (Of course during the holidays, I’ve been a bit, shall we say, lax, in my rationing, but I digress.) That’s why I welcome the smaller-size dessert trend. It saves me from having to cut a Dessert in half and either enjoying the 2nd half the next day or trashing the 2nd half. To be brutally honest—it’s not so much that the smaller size saves me fat, calories, and sugar. It’s more that I can indulge in two desserts instead of one!

Small Pastries from Wanda’s Pie in the Sky – Photo Courtesy of Wanda’s Pie in the Sky (Toronto)

All the best wishes for a wonderful 2015 filled with delicious Desserts!

Tagged Buttercup Bake Shop, Dufflet Pastries, Graeter's, Ruggles Cafe Bakery, Southport Grocery and Cafe, Wanda's Pie in the Sky

Dec 09 2014

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Bakers, Cookbooks

Rose Levy Beranbaum

Rose Levy Beranbaum’s Renee Fleming Golden Chiffon Cake – Photo Courtesy of Ben Fink and the Real Baking with Rose Web Site

As a dessert glutton, an advanced beginner baker (but don’t ask me to use a pastry tube or whip egg whites), and fan of cookbooks with photos of glorious desserts, I eagerly awaited the 92nd Street Y’s program (in Manhattan) featuring Rose Levy Beranbaum. Rose is a noted cookbook author who is famous for her meticulous recipes as well as the deliciousness and beauty of her creations. Her first cookbook, The Cake Bible, was published 26 1/2 years ago and she just published her 10th cookbook, The Baking Bible.

Rose Levy Beranbaum – Photo Courtesy of Ben Fink and the Real Baking with Rose Web Site

She was interviewed by Lucinda Scala Quinn, Senior Vice President & Executive Editorial Director of Food at Martha Stewart Living, and author of four cookbooks.

Rose’s New Book, The Baking Bible -Photo Courtesy of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Here are some highlights from the interview with Rose:

Rose’s Mud Turtle Pie – Photo Courtesy of Ben Fink and the Real Baking with Rose Web Site

■ The Internet is fearsome for publishers and authors. If you can find recipes online, do you really need cookbooks? But interesting things happened. People who purchased Rose’s cookbooks started contacting her with questions and comments. A community of bakers was connected through her books. And groups of people started baking every recipe in her books. In fact, for The Baking Bible, a group of “Beta Bakers” (recipe testers) were given the recipes before publication of the book.

■ And this community is international. A baker in India was not able to locate Philadelphia brand cream cheese and wasn’t sure what to use in its place. Another baker in India was able to suggest a good, locally available substitute.

■ Chocolate Chip Cookies are to American baking what Financiers are to French baking. (Larousse Gastronomique defines a Financier as: “A cake made from a sponge mixture using ground almonds and whisked egg whites.”) Both treats are characterized by few ingredients but many variations from one bakery to the next.

■ When I asked about baking trends—what’s popular now that wasn’t years ago, Rose replied “Cronuts.” And she added Red Velvet Cake to this list. But she developed a Red Velvet Cake recipe she was happy with. In fact, a photo of her Red Velvet Cake, the “Red Velvet Rose,” occupies a place of honor—the back cover—of The Baking Bible.

■ Rose started writing cookbooks because she needed a way to keep track of the details (notes) she worked out while she was baking. She later began working with Woody Wolston, who was not a professional baker, enabling Rose to fully appreciate the challenges faced by less experienced bakers. And Rose’s nickname for their ongoing collaboration is Team “RoseWood.”

Rose's Pecan Pie (Baked i a Tart Pan) - Photo Courtesy of Ben Fink and the Real Baking with Rose Web Site

Rose’s Pecan Pie (Baked in a Tart Pan) – Photo Courtesy of Ben Fink and the Real Baking with Rose Web Site

A few of Rose’s tips and explanations:

■ She usually doesn’t use almond extract. She thinks it can impart an artificial taste. But it pairs beautifully with cherries so she uses almond extract in her Sour Cherry Pie. Rose pits the cherries by hand so they don’t get crushed. And to ensure the cherries keep their shape, she stuffs them with currants.

■ As I absolutely adore white chocolate, I was thrilled to hear Rose say that while she likes the flavor of white chocolate, she prizes it even more for its texture. Baking with white chocolate ensures a higher rise and a more velvety texture.

■ If baking powder is old, the top of a cake will be dome-shaped, instead of flat.

■ Ingredients should be weighed.

■ Carrot cakes are usually made with oil, instead of butter. These cakes typically sport a cream cheese frosting/filling, and if made with butter they’ll firm up too much in the refrigerator. (Cakes with cream cheese need to be kept cold.)

Hmm, my big decision is trying to figure out which Baking Bible recipe I’ll make first.

Tagged Rose Levy Beranbaum, THe Baking Bible

Nov 23 2014

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Pie

Pecan Pie

Pecan Pie from Sweetie-licious Bakery Café (Michigan) – Photo Courtesy of Williams-Sonoma’s Web Site

Pecans are native to Texas and Louisiana and also strongly associated with other Southern states, such as Georgia. So, is it safe to assume that Pecan Pie is a lot more popular in the South than in other parts of the country?

Chocolate Pecan Pie from Three Babes Bakeshop (San Francisco, CA) – Photo Courtesy of Colin Price and Three Babes Bakeshop

From what I can tell, the answer is complicated and seems to be “Probably, but the trend is not as clearly defined as you might think.”

Hy-Vee’s Homestyle Pecan Pie – Photo Courtesy of Hy-Vee (Stores Throughout the Midwest)

Here’s a recap of what some bakery owners/ managers across the country said about the popularity of their Pecan Pie offerings. (While only eight bakeries were surveyed, it still may shed some light on regional Pecan Pie preferences.)

We’ll start with bakeries in the South.

Tiny Pies’ Thanksgiving Pie Menu – Photo Courtesy of Tiny Pies (Austin, TX)

On the menu at Austin, Texas-based Tiny Pies are: Sweet Texas Pecan Pie; Bourbon Pecan Pie; and Texas Two Step Pie (Pecan Pie layered with Chocolate Brownie). Tiny Pies’ Amanda Wadsworth Bates said the Sweet Texas Pecan Pie and the Texas Two Step Pie are equally popular and are the bakery’s best sellers. And Pecan Pie is in demand all year long, but especially during the holidays. Amanda noted Pecan Pie seems to be especially popular with men.

Pie Boxes at Royers Café – Photo Courtesy of Royers Café (Austin, TX)

Also in the city of Austin is Royers Cafe. Bud “Pieman” Royer, founder of Royers Café, summed up the appeal of Pecan Pie to Lone Star State residents “Pecan Pie is Texas! And it is a holiday Pie favorite.” Royers even offers a sugar free Pecan Pie.

Deep Dish Pecan Pie from Collin Street Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Collin Street Bakery (Different Locations in Texas)

Collin Street Bakery is headquartered 50 miles south of Dallas. Collin Street’s LeAnn Curry said the Deep Dish Pecan Pie is more popular than the Fudge Pecan Pie. LeAnn also pointed out “While sales do increase close to the holidays, the Pecan Pie is a very popular item year-round.”

Dark Chocolate Pecan Pie from Sweetie-licious Bakery Café (Michigan) – Photo Courtesy of Williams-Sonoma’s Web Site

Moving from the South to the Midwest: Sweetie-licious Bakery Cafe has three bakery locations in Michigan and sells its pies online through Williams-Sonoma. Online offerings include: Pecan Pie; Dark Chocolate Pecan Pie; and Lemon Pecan Chess pie. Stephanie Haynie, bakery leader at Sweetie-licious, pointed out that demand for Pecan Pie is very seasonal.

Let’s travel to the West Coast.

A Display of Pies from the Three Babes Bakeshop (San Francisco, CA) - Photo Courtesy of Colin Price and the Three Babes Bakeshop

A Display of Pies from Three Babes Bakeshop (San Francisco, CA) – Photo Courtesy of Colin Price and Three Babes Bakeshop

Lenore Estrada, co-owner of San Francisco-based Three Babes Bakeshop, had this to say about her Pecan Pies: “Bourbon Pecan Pie and Bittersweet Chocolate Pecan Pie are the two Pecan Pie varieties we offer. They are equally popular (i.e., extremely popular) and are in-demand all year long! (By contrast, Pumpkin Pie and Sweet Potato Pie are in demand only in November and December.) Chocolate Pecan is gluten-free (made with graham crackers we bake ourselves from rice flour). Bourbon Pecan is more of a traditional Pecan Pie with a sugary base made from brown rice syrup [as opposed to corn syrup].”

Salted Georgia Pecan Pie from Lauretta Jean’s Pie Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Lauretta Jean’s Pie Bakery (Portland, OR)

And north of San Francisco, in Portland Oregon, are the two locations of Lauretta Jean’s Pie Bakery. Baker/Owner Kate McMillen explained: “People love the Salted Georgia Pecan Pie. It is probably the second most popular Pie, next to Pumpkin, for Thanksgiving orders. Of course it becomes more popular in autumn, but people really love the Pie year-round. Here at the shop, I order as many boxes of Georgia pecans as I can. This year I got 150 pounds. I will use them until they are gone and then wait until next fall when they are in season again. If I make it through Christmas this year, I’ll be lucky. Currently we do the Salted Georgia Pecan Pie and a Derby Pie, which is basically a Chocolate Pecan Pie.”

Chocolate Coffee Cinnamon Pecan Pie from Magpie – Photo Courtesy of Magpie (Philadelphia, PA)

Moving across the country to Philadelphia, you can find Chocolate Coffee Cinnamon Pecan Pie at Magpie. Magpie’s Elizabeth Godown said: “Here in Philadelphia, and in the region, Pecan Pie is certainly a Thanksgiving/fall/winter flavor and not a type of Pie that sustains consistent interest and demand. Personally I am from further south, where Pecan Pie is on the menu year round and riots would break out if you said you didn’t serve it. But around here, our customers seem to be more surprised to see it on the menu…” Magpie’s Chocolate Coffee Cinnamon Pecan Pie is on the menu from late September/early October through December. Elizabeth also said she has no plans to offer other varieties of Pecan Pie since there’s not enough demand.

Rolling Out Pie Dough at Wanda’s Pie in the Sky (Toronto, Canada) – Photo Courtesy of Michael Kohn Photography and Wanda’s Pie in the Sky

And let’s not forget about Canada. Toronto-based Wanda’s Pie in the Sky offers three types of Pecan Pie: Black-Bottom Chocolate Pecan Pie; Chocolate Pecan Pie; and Classic Pecan Pie. Leora Winkler said that even though Wanda’s sees an increase in the demand for Pecan Pie during the fall and winter, the Classic Pecan Pie is still an overall best seller in spring and summer.

I better nab a slice of Pecan Pie while I can!

Tagged Collin Street Bakery, Lauretta Jean's, Magpie, Royers Cafe, Sweetie-licious Bakery Cafe, Three Babes Bakeshop, Tiny Pies, Wanda's Pie in the Sky

Nov 09 2014

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Dessert Entrepreneurs, New York Desserts

New York Desserts and Crain’s Made in New York Event

Ovenly’s Brooklyn Blackout Cake – Photo Courtesy of Ovenly (NYC)

I recently attended Crain’s Made in New York, an event which connects the small business food and beverage community with retailers and buyers. As a dessert glutton, I think I fall into the “buyer” category.

Cake Slices from Make My Bake - Photo Courtesy of Make My Cake (NYC)

Cake Slices from Make My Cake – Photo Courtesy of Make My Cake (NYC)

These are some of the dessert-related exhibitors:

"Grandma's Mix-Up Bars" from Broadway Baker - Photo Courtesy of Broadway Baker (NYC)

“Grandma’s Mix-Up Bar” from Broadway Baker – Photo Courtesy of Broadway Baker (NYC)

Broadway Baker – Baked goods are produced in small batches using recipes that have been in the family for three generations. Broadway Baker’s offerings include “Major Brownies,” “Grandma’s Mix-Up Bars” (chocolate, coconut, crushed pecans atop a graham cracker crust, drizzled with a sweet cream glaze), chocolate chip cookies, cupcakes, and more. A portion of the sales of the treats are donated to charities. Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on Broadway Baker.

Cupcakes from Brooklyn Cupcake – Photo Courtesy of Brooklyn Cupcake (NYC)

Brooklyn Cupcake – Started by two sisters, along with help from a cousin, Brooklyn Cupcake’s menu reflects the founders’ Puerto Rican and Italian heritage. Cupcake flavors include: Dulce de Leche, Flan de Queso (vanilla cake with homemade flan), Guava con Queso (yellow cake with guava paste and guava jelly), Rainbow Cookie (inspired by classic Italian rainbow cookies), as well as more traditional Cupcake flavors.

Beer & Pretzel Caramels from Liddabit Sweets – Photo Courtesy of Liddabit Sweets (NYC)

Liddabit Sweets – Dark Chocolate Sea Salt Caramels and Beer & Pretzel Caramels are this Brooklyn confectioner’s two most popular products. The kick in the Beer Caramels comes from Brooklyn Brewery’s Brown Ale and East India Pale Ale. And let’s not forget about Candy Bars. “The King” – a milk chocolate covered peanut butter and banana ganache bar is named after, you guessed it, Elvis.

Red Velvet Cake from Make My Cake – Photo Courtesy of Make My Cake (NYC)

Make My Cake – Cakes, cupcakes, cookies, and pies are produced using family recipes that combine the southern traditions of Mississippi and Alabama along with Harlem soul. Cake flavors include Red Velvet, Butter, Carrot Cake, Double Chocolate, Caramel, Coconut Pineapple, Lemon Butter, Strawberry Layer, and German Chocolate Throwdown.

Ovenly’s Cookies with Oats, Currants, Apricots and Spices – Photo Courtesy of Ovenly (NYC)

Brooklyn-based Ovenly incorporates interesting flavor combinations in its baked goods. Ovenly’s offerings include Honey Blondies, Montego Bay Bars (date + cocoa), Salted Chocolate Chip Cookies, Pistachio Agave Cookies, Carrot + Honey Buttercream Cupcakes, Cornflake Blueberry Muffins, Cinnamon Nutella Quick Bread, shortbread with espresso and burnt sugar and more. A number of these items are vegan, wheat-free, or gluten-free.

Logo of the Specialty Food Association – Image Courtesy of the Specialty Food Association (NYC)

In addition to looking at (and tasting) exhibitors’ offerings, you could also attend seminars. I attended a very interesting one, which profiled the Specialty Food Consumer. Here’s a very small sampling of what Denise Purcell, Editor/Senior Director, Content Development, of the Specialty Food Association, reported on:

■ Chocolate, Olive Oil & Other Specialty Oils, and Cheese are the top three categories of specialty foods purchased. Frozen Desserts/Ice Cream took 6th place while 9th place was taken by Bread & Baked Goods.

■ 18 to 24 year olds are the group most likely to use Chocolate, Salty Snacks, Frozen Desserts, and other Packaged, Ready-to-Eat Food and Beverages

■ Taste is consistently the No. 1 reason for trying a new product

■ Slightly less than one-half (49%) of specialty food consumers purchase food online . This drops to 14% when looking at online sales of Chocolate.

I’m glad I live in an area where so many dessert entrepreneurs are turning out their very tasty treats!

Tagged Broadway Baker, Brooklyn Cupcake, Liddabit Sweets, Make My Cake, Ovenly, Specialty Food Association

Oct 17 2014

2 Comments

Candy

Licorice Candy

Licorice from Myzel’s Chocolate – Photo Courtesy of Myzel’s Chocolate (NYC)

I love Candy, but then again, it’s difficult to think of anything made with sugar that I don’t adore.

Allsorts from Catherine’s Chocolate Shop – Photo Courtesy of Catherine’s Chocolate Shop (Great Barrington, MA)

And I’ve always had a particular fondness for Licorice — especially Allsorts.

But what exactly is Licorice Candy?

According to Beth Kimmerle’s book, Candy: The Sweet History, Licorice is Candy flavored with the oil extract of a European or Asian Licorice root plant. And Licorice Extract is naturally 50 times sweeter than sugar.

Red Licorice and Licorice Root from Robin’s Candy – Photo Courtesy of Robin’s Candy (Boston and Great Barrington, MA)

Robin Helfand, owner of Robin’s Candy, with locations in Boston and Great Barrington, MA, summarizes the differences between Black and Red Licorice and explains why European Black Licorice is so popular.

Red Licorice Nibs from Robin’s Candy – Photo Courtesy of Robin’s Candy (Boston and Great Barrington, MA)

“Today most domestically made Black Licorice — including the classic twist enjoyed in movie theaters across the country — does include some Licorice Root essence, although anise continues to remain the predominant flavoring. We have yet to encounter a domestic ‘Red Licorice’ made with the [Licorice] Root…..”

Dutch Zout Diamond Licorice from Robin’s Candy – Photo Courtesy of Robin’s Candy (Boston and Great Barrington, MA)

“In the 10 years since we began developing ‘Licorice Bars’ at our shops, our guests have become interested in trying more European Black Licorice — which is generally made with pure Egyptian or Sicilian Licorice root and often includes the mineral compound Salmiak (Ammonium Chloride). Salmiak triggers the salt receptors on the taste buds and enhances the overall Licorice taste.

“Known in the U.S as ‘Salty Licorice,’ Salmiak Licorice is available in dozens of shapes and strengths — from mild Dutch Salmiakki Pastilles to firm, powerful Dutch ‘Double Zout’ Coins. Currently, Double Zout varieties are the strongest varieties permitted for sale in the U.S.”

Robin attributes the growing popularity of Salty Licorice to an increase in the number of adventurous eaters who are eager to sample unusual, novel, and/or international foods.

Sugar Mountain – Photo Courtesy of Sugar Mountain (Toronto)

Debby Adams, of Toronto-based Sugar Mountain, believes Licorice is much more than a passing fad. She’s been with Sugar Mountain for 10 years and during that time, the Store has always carried an extensive selection of Licorice. Debby reports that Dutch Salted Licorice is very popular with her customers. And the most requested varieties are Dutch Coins and Double Salted Licorice. She notes: “The thing we have learned about Licorice over the years is that people like very specific kinds and they don’t tend to move too far out of that flavor profile.”

Amy’s Candy Bar – Photo Courtesy of Amy’s Candy Bar (Chicago)

The most requested variety of Licorice at Amy’s Candy Bar in Chicago is Soft Black Licorice. The owner, Amy Hansen, thinks Licorice is becoming more popular because people are more open to trying it and discovering the nuances in all of the different varieties. She usually carries between 15 to 20 different types and every few months she brings in a new type to try. Amy thinks Licorice that is both sweet and salty is gaining in popularity in this country.

Black Licorice from Licorice International – Photo Courtesy of Licorice International

An online store devoted to Licorice? Why not? Licorice International also has a brick-and-mortar store in Lincoln, Nebraska. Its most popular Black Licorice is Australian. When I asked about the popularity of Licorice, a spokesperson for Licorice International noted: “Licorice is becoming more popular because it is more available now than it had been during the 70s through the 90s. We started Licorice International in 2002 and worked hard to raise the visibility of Licorice. When we have the opportunity to add Licorice products, we do, We are always on the lookout for something new or otherwise unavailable in the United States.”

While Salted Black Licorice is becoming more popular, there will always be people (myself included) who still fancy more sugary Licorice.

Candy at The Candy Store – Photo Courtesy of The Candy Store (Ottawa)

Meredith of The Candy Store in Ottawa sums up Licorice preferences this way: “There tends to be two camps when it comes to popular Licorice flavors — one side is all for the Salted (Dutch) Licorice — the other is for the sweet (think Allsorts). So it really depends on the person and their preferences. We did carry up to 12 flavors of Licorice at one point in the store but have since decreased to around 3 or 4 varieties to free up space for some other products. Licorice doesn’t tend to be a flavor that becomes trendy or hot at some times more than others simply because it us such a polarizing flavor. For most people, either you like it or you don’t so I find it hard to convince non-lovers to give it another chance.”

Candy at Candyality – Photo Courtesy of Candyality (Chicago)

Another interesting Licorice trend was reported by Terese McDonald, founder of Chicago-based Candyality stores. “This spring, soda pop flavors of Licorice came to the market — Dr. Pepper, Orange Crush, Grape Crush, Hawaiian Punch, and A & W Root Beer. They have been a big hit, especially the Dr. Pepper flavor.” Terese notes that Licorice has always been very popular at Candyality, and it’s known for having Chicago’s first “Licorice Bar.”

Allsorts from Sugar Mountain – Photo Courtesy of Sugar Mountain (Toronto)

I think it’s time for some Allsorts!

Tagged Amy's Candy Bar, Black Licorice, Candyality, Licorice, Licorice International, Red Licorice, Robin's Candy, Sugar Mountain, The Candy Store of Ottawa

Sep 28 2014

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Cake, Cupcakes

Banana Cake and Banana Cupcakes

Banana Peanut Butter Cupcake from Prairie Girl Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Prairie Girl Bakery (Toronto)

Since they’re available year-round, I take Bananas for granted. And while I really like Banana Cake and Banana Cupcakes, I think I take them for granted as well. So the time has come for me to give Banana Desserts their due.

Banana Cream Cheesecake from The Cheesecake Factory – Photo Courtesy of The Cheesecake Factory

It’s not surprising that Bananas would find their way into Cake and Cupcakes. This tropical fruit is very versatile and pairs beautifully with Chocolate, Caramel, Rum, Coconut, and so much more.

Banana Split Cupcake from H Bake Shop – Photo Courtesy of H Bake Shop (NYC)

Interestingly, I came across many more Banana Cupcakes than Banana Cakes. Hmmm….are Cupcakes more popular than Cake, overall, or are Banana Cupcakes just more popular than Banana Cake? Further investigation, preferably involving the sampling of Banana Cake, is needed!

Chocolate Peanut Butter Banana Cupcake from For the Love of Cake – Photo Courtesy of For the Love of Cake (Toronto)

But regardless of which is more popular, people sure like their Banana Baked Goods — particularly when paired with a thick Cream Cheese frosting or rich fillings.

Banana Cake from Icing on the Cake Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Icing on the Cake Bakery (Los Gatos, CA)

Lynn Magnoli, owner of Los Gatos-based Icing on the Cake Bakery, said “Our fresh Banana Cake is our #1 selling Cake. It is well known and famous, with cream cheese icing,”

Banana Chocolate Cupcake from Prairie Girl Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Prairie Girl Bakery (Toronto)

Toronto-based Prairie Girl Bakery offers two “Everyday” Banana Cupcakes — a Banana Cupcake with Chocolate Cream Cheese Icing and a Banana Cupcake with Peanut Butter Icing (the more popular one). And some “Treats of the Week” (specials) feature Banana — such as a Banana Caramel Cupcake. As Orna Quinn, Prairie Girl Bakery’s Catering Manager, notes: “As these [Banana] Treats of the Week have been well received, we can imagine creating new treats that involve Banana.”

Sweet Elizabeth’s Cakes – Photo Courtesy of Sweet Elizabeth’s Cakes (Philadelphia)

Elizabeth Paradiso, co-creator of Philadelphia-based Sweet Elizabeth’s Cakes, explains: “Our Roasted Banana Cake is super popular! We make it seasonally, usually around Easter/Springtime and around deep wintertime. While the Cake is a hit, it’s not the most popular flavor we create. I think one of the draws of this Cake is the Nutella Buttercream we pair it with.”

Bananas Foster Cupcakes from NoRA Cupcake Company – Photo Courtesy of NoRA Cupcake Company – Middletown, CT

On the line-up at NoRA Cupcake Company (Middletown, CT): a Fat Elvis Cupcake (a Banana Cake filled with Marshmallow Fluff, topped with a peanut butter icing that is then rolled in candied bacon bits) and a Bananas Foster Cupcake (a Banana Cinnamon Sugar Cake, filled with Caramel, topped with a Vanilla Whipped Frosting that is drizzled with more Caramel as well as Pecans). Other Banana Cupcakes include a Choco Nutty Nana and a Banana Split. NoRA Cupcake’s Carrie Carella reports that the Fat Elvis is the most popular Banana Cupcake.

Espresso on Banana Cupcake from Butter Lane Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Butter Lane Bakery (NYC)

The Vanilla Cupcake is the most popular Cupcake at New York City-based Butter Lane Bakery, but owner Lisa Liu said that her favorites are the Banana Cupcakes.

Let’s hear it for Banana Cake and Banana Cupcakes!

Tagged Banana, Butter Lane Bakery, Icing on the Cake Bakery, NoRA Cupcake Company, Prairie Girl Bakery, Sweet Elizabeth's Cakes

Sep 04 2014

2 Comments

French Pastries

Eclairs

A variety of Eclairs from Éclair Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Éclair Bakery (NYC)

A recent Wall Street Journal article described some U.S. bakeries’ and consumers’ fascination with lesser known French pastries – Caneles, Paris Brest, etc.

This got me thinking. What about well known French pastries — Napoleons, Croissants, and Éclairs? While I was hungrily eyeing up a gorgeous Almond Croissant this past weekend, it’s generally the Éclairs that capture my attention and lead me to gluttony. (I’m pleased to report that I resisted the Croissant temptation — for now.). So let’s look at Éclairs.

Espresso Éclair from Maison Kayser – Photo Courtesy of Maison Kayser (NYC)

An Éclair is a long pastry made with pate a choux dough (a sticky dough). It is usually filled with custard or whipped cream and is then iced. While it seems complicated, pate a choux dough is supposed to be relatively easy to put together. Of course anything involving a pastry bag makes me want to run.

Are Éclairs becoming more popular?

Raspberry Éclair from Éclair Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Éclair Bakery (NYC)

Stephane Pourrez, owner and head pastry chef of New York City-based Éclair Bakery, said “When I started to work in NYC a few years ago, the macaron was one of the most popular items. The macaron is still very popular but I can notice now a real passion for Éclairs.”

Chocolate Éclairs from Maison Kayser – Photo Courtesy of Maison Kayser (NYC)

A spokesperson for Maison Kayser, a French bakery/cafe with branches in New York City, had this to say: “The Éclair is part of the very classic French pastry. Today there is a resurgence in returning to the basics, the classics and to more simple things. The Éclair illustrates this trend.” And Maison Kayser’s most popular Éclair flavor? A very classic Chocolate.

Gibassier from Patisserie 46 – Photo Courtesy of Patisserie 46 (Minneapolis)

Mandy Heathcote, Catering Director for Minneapolis-based Patisserie 46, points out that more and more European pastry shops are popping up throughout the States. So it’s not surprising that classic European pastries are becoming more popular in this country.

Of course these classics can be updated.

An assortment of special Eclairs from Maison Kayser – Photo Courtesy of Maison Kayser (NYC)

As Maison Kayser’s spokesperson explains “….there are trends in making these pastries lighter and less sweet overall. Today pastry chefs express more creativity as well and have improved their techniques, allowing them to work more with flavor — fresh fruits for example — and reduce the amount of sugar being used and also to produce lighter creams.” And as an example of this, Maison Kayser will debut a Blackberry/Raspberry Éclair in October.

Pineapple, Cheesecake, Brownie, and Passion Fruit Eclairs from Éclair Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Éclair Bakery (NYC)

Éclair Bakery’s Stephane Pourrez reports he is working on two unique Éclair flavors — a Brownie Éclair and a Chestnut Rum Éclair. And Éclair’s web site heralds the arrival of two new Éclairs — Pineapple and Cheesecake. Even though Éclair offers a huge number of flavors, the Classic — Vanilla Custard with a Chocolate Glaze — is the most popular. However, Stephane notes the Red Velvet Éclair and the Intense Dark Chocolate Éclairs are also very popular. (I don’t understand why the Coffee Éclair isn’t the most sought after variety, but I digress.)

Caneles from Patisserie 46 – Photo Courtesy of Patisserie 46 (Minneapolis)

Patisserie 46’s Mandy Heathcote notes “We have created ‘savory Éclairs’ for our catering and think these will become very popular.”

Eclairs and other Petit Fours from Dufflet Pastries – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

The miniature-dessert trend has spread to Éclairs as well. The only Éclairs Toronto-based Dufflet Pastries offers are part of a bite-size collection of Petit Fours.

I think it’s time I show my appreciation of classic French pastries by indulging in an Éclair!

Tagged Dufflet Pastries, Eclair Bakery, Eclairs, Maison Kayser, Patisserie 46

Aug 05 2014

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Ice Cream

Ice Cream Sandwiches

Cherry Cheesecake Ice Cream Sandwich from Coolhaus – Photo Courtesy of Coolhaus

How can you go wrong with Ice Cream Sandwiches? These frozen treats combine two great desserts – Ice Cream and Cookies. While I remember scarfing down Ice Cream Sandwiches as a kid, I have fond memories of the Chipwich, which burst on the dessert scene in New York in 1981. It consisted of Vanilla Ice Cream sandwiched between two Chocolate Chip cookies. And I think the edges of the Ice Cream were rolled in Chocolate Chips. (I don’t remember if a Chocolate Ice Cream version was available.)

While Chipwiches were quite good, Ice Cream Sandwiches have come a long way. The number of flavors and varieties available now is staggering.

Ice Cream Sandwiches from Melt Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Melt Bakery (New York City)

Among the whimsically named flavor combinations on New York-based Melt Bakery’s menu: the Lovelet (Red Velvet Meltcakes + Cream Cheese Ice Cream); the Mortician (Crackly Chocolate Cookies + Malted Chocolate Rum Ice Cream); and the Elvis (Peanut Butter Cookies + Banana Ice Cream). And the most popular flavor? The Classic (Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookies + Vanilla Ice Cream). There are seasonal specials each month; August is heralding the arrival of Corn Ice Cream.

Sweet Wheels' Salted Oatmeal Cookie with Coconut Ice Cream - Photo Courtesy of Sweet Wheels (Seattle, WA)

Sweet Wheels’ Salted Oatmeal Cookies with Coconut Ice Cream – Photo Courtesy of Sweet Wheels (Seattle, WA)

Seattle-based Sweet Wheels is a food truck specializing in handmade Ice Cream Sandwiches. Standard Ice Cream Sandwiches include a Chocolate Chip Macadamia Nut Cookie with Vanilla Ice Cream; an Espresso/Chocolate Shortbread Cookie with White Coffee Ice Cream; and a Salted Oatmeal Cookie with Coconut Ice Cream. And you can create Custom Sandwiches by combining these Cookies with different Ice Cream flavors. Sweet Wheels’ Ron said “When people read the menu without having had our Ice Cream Sandwiches, they often choose Sandwiches with Chocolate Chip Macadamia Cookies. However, when people are returning customers, with some experience eating our Sandwiches, then the Salted Oatmeal Cookie with Coconut Ice Cream is first.” (Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on Oatmeal Cookies.)

Whiskey Lucky Charms Ice Cream & Snickerdoodle Cookies from Coolhaus – Photo Courtesy of Coolhaus

Coolhaus, with a national fleet of Ice Cream trucks and two storefronts in Southern California, is known for its architecturally inspired gourmet ice cream sandwiches. Co-founders Natasha Case and Freya Estreller began naming their Ice Cream Sandwiches after architects and architectural movements that inspired them. Interesting Ice Cream flavors abound. How about Balsamic Fig & Mascarpone? Or Bourbon Pecan Pie? Or Chocolate Chipotle? Or Root Beer Float? And Cookie choices include Chocolate Chunk Pretzel; Double Chocolate with Sea Salt; Gluten-Free Coconut Almond; Potato Chip & Butterscotch; and S’mores.

These are Natasha Case’s answers to my questions:

Of the many flavor combinations you offer, which is the most popular?
Our most popular Ice Cream Sandwiches are twists on classics, like Mintimalism (Dirty Mint Chip Ice Cream with fresh mint and brown sugar + Double Chocolate Chip Cookies) and Im Pei-nut Butter (Peanut Butter Ice Cream + Double Chocolate Chip Cookies)…but also really innovative ones like…. Lucky Charms Ice Cream & Snickerdoodle Cookies.

Will any new flavors be added?
We’re always creating new Ice Cream flavors and brainstorming unique Sandwich combinations. I don’t think we’ll ever stop adding new flavors.

Can Coolhaus share any Ice Cream Sandwich trends with us?
Ice Cream Sandwiches in general are becoming a bigger trend this year. I read an Entrepreneur article late last year where they predicted Cupcakes and Donuts would be out and Ice Cream Sandwiches would be in….Beyond that, I’ve seen people get really innovative with Cookies, like Churro [deep-fried dough] Cookies for example and unique types of macaroons. There are also a lot of Ice Creams using Asian ingredients with high acidity right now, i.e., yuzu [a sour citrus fruit].”

I’m ready for an Ice Cream Sandwich!

Tagged Coolhaus, Ice Cream Sandwiches, Melt Bakery, Sweet Wheels

Jul 17 2014

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Pie

Cherry Pie

Michigan Sour Cherry Pie from First Slice Pie Cafe – Photo Courtesy of First Slice Pie Cafe (Chicago, IL)

I top Oatmeal with chopped up Cherries. While this breakfast will never be as tasty or decadent as a slice of Cherry Pie, it’s still quite good.

I think what makes Cherry Pie (and even my Oatmeal-Cherry combo) so special is knowing that most Cherry types have a short season. Therefore the Cherry Pie (or other Cherry delicacy) should definitely be savored.

And of course Mother Nature can make fruits even scarcer.

Cherry Rhubarb Lattice Pie from Three Babes Bakeshop – Photo Courtesy of Three Babes Bakeshop (San Francisco)

Lenore Estrada from San Francisco-based Three Babes Bakeshop said this year’s drought depleted the Cherry crop. The Cherries that growers had left were sold at the higher, retail prices. Lenore said “We offered Cherry Pies only one week this year and they sold out within minutes of their announcement on our menu – they are loved!”

Cherry Almond Double Crust Pie from The Pie Hole – Photo Courtesy of The Pie Hole (Los Angeles)

The Pie Hole, based in Los Angeles, offers an extremely popular Cherry Pie. But it’s only available in the summer.

Lauretta Jean’s Cherry Pie – Photo Courtesy of Lauretta Jean’s (Portland, OR)

Of course, canned Cherries can be used for Cherry Pie. Kate McMillen of Lauretta Jean’s, based in Portland, Oregon, said she offers a very popular Tart Cherry Pie, based on her grandmother’s original recipe. In keeping with the recipe, a specific canned Cherry is used. Kate said “That pie will be available in the fall again when we can get our hands on the right Cherry – they are processing and canning the Cherries now.” Also on the Cherry Pie line-up: a Sour Cherry and Apricot Pie, available for just a few weeks.

Whether it’s available for a short few weeks or year-round, people sure like Cherry Pie

Cherry Pie from A La Mode Pies – Photo Courtesy of A La Mode Pies (Seattle)

Chris Porter, of Seattle-based A La Mode Pies, said its Sour Cherry Pie is very popular. In fact, “it’s a favorite that never leaves the menu…..it’s hard to operate a Pie shop without a Cherry Pie on the menu.”

And Cherry Pie can be gussied up and paired with other fruit.

Mini Cherry Pies (“Cutie Pies”) from Petsi Pies – Photo Courtesy of Petsi Pies (Somerville, MA)

Somerville, Massachusetts-based Petsi Pies offers a Cherry Crumb Pie, made with red tart Cherries. But as Bakery Manager Jackie Bowers notes, if you prefer other toppings, your choices include Oat Crumb (instead of the regular White Crumb), Lattice, or Pastry. And it’s available in different sizes, including a 2″ “Cutie Pie.”

Cherry + Peach Pie from Simply Delicious Pies – Photo Courtesy of Simply Delicious Pies (Shaker Heights, OH)

Beth Kaboth, Co-owner /Manager of Simply Delicious Pies in Shaker Heights, Ohio, said that while the plain Cherry is the most popular of the Cherry Pies, other varieties include Cherry + Apple + Blueberry and Cherry + Peach.

Ontario Sour Cherry Pie and Tarts from Wanda’s Pie in the Sky – Photo Courtesy of Wanda’s Pie in the Sky (Toronto)

Toronto bakery, Wanda’s Pie in the Sky offers a variety of Cherry delicacies: Ontario Sour Cherry Pie; Apple Cherry Crumble; Cherry Apricot Pie; and Very Berry Pie. Wanda’s Leora Winkler notes that these pies are available in different sizes. Cherry Pie purists should rejoice – the Ontario Sour Cherry Pie recently won an award at a pie competition.

I’ll be dreaming of Cherry Pies!

Tagged A La Mode Pies, Cherry Pie, Lauretta Jean's, Petsi Pies, Simply Delicious Pies, The Pie Hole, Three Babes Bakeshop, Wanda's Pie in the Sky

Jun 30 2014

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Fancy Food Show, Specialty Food Show

The 2014 Summer Fancy Food Show (also known as the Specialty Food Show)

The Summer Fancy Food Show, held at the Javits center in New York City, is the show for all things gourmet – including of course, dessert.

What was popular at this year’s show? Desserts with pistachios. Brittles – lots – and in plenty of interesting varieties, such as Butter Cinnamon Pecan, Cashew, Almond Mocha, and of course traditional Peanut. Other “brittles” – that are more thin brownies or cookies, with the consistency of crackers. Oats – not just as a hot cereal, but as an ingredient. Salted caramel, either as the star of a dessert, or as a supporting player. Healthier desserts. And of course gluten-free products.

Here are some products that illustrate some of these trends:

Seth Greenberg’s Authentic New York Brownie Crunch – Photo Courtesy of Seth Greenberg’s Authentic New York Brownie Crunch (NYC)

— Seth Greenberg’s Authentic New York Brownie Crunch is available in a number of different varieties, such as Cinnamon Cappuccino, as well as three new spicy flavors (Jalapeño, Chile Pepper, and Chipotle). What’s behind the spicy flavors? Seth Greenberg was inspired by a chicken with mole sauce dish he enjoyed while in Mexico City.

Big Bite Brittle from Droga Chocolates – Photo Courtesy of Droga Chocolates (Los Angeles, CA)

— Big Bite Brittle is buttery peanut brittle sprinkled with fleur de sel. It’s available from Droga Chocolates.

The Carmelia Bar from Valrhona – Photo Courtesy of Valrhona

— One of Valrhona’s new chocolate bars is the Carmelia. While it has a milky flavor, it also has a contrasting salted butter caramel flavor.

Pistachio Toffee from Gearharts Fine Chocolates – Photo Courtesy of Gearharts Fine Chocolates (Charlottesville, VA)

— Gearharts Fine Chocolates’ Pistachio Toffee is buttery toffee with lightly salted pistachios and it’s dipped in bittersweet chocolate.

The Muffkie from The Food System, Inc. – Photo Courtesy of The Food System, Inc. (Stafford Springs, CT)

— The “Muffkie” is a small muffin top. Since it’s chock full of pistachios and whole grain oats and lower in sugar and butter, it’s a healthier snack.

These are some other interesting products I noticed:

The Lover White Chocolate Bar from Chocolat Moderne – Photo Courtesy of Chocolat Moderne (NYC)

— The Lover White Chocolate Bar from Chocolat Moderne is a white chocolate bar filled with passion fruit caramel and it’s scented with cardamom. This chocolate bar is a 2014 sofi finalist (awards bestowed for culinary innovation).

Wicked Jack’s Tavern Rum Cake – Photo Courtesy of Wicked Jack’s Tavern (Marietta, GA)

— Marietta, Georgia-based Wicked Jack’s Tavern creates caramel-coated Jamaican rum cakes. There is a legend that an elderly woman (“Ol Gran”) related to the owner of a Wicked Jack’s Tavern in Jamaica baked rum cakes that were highly sought after.

Lemon Sugar Cookies from the Grey Ghost Bakery – Photo Courtesy of the Grey Ghost Bakery (SC)

— Another company with an interesting back story is the Grey Ghost Bakery. Based in South Carolina, the Grey Ghost Bakery was named for the legendary Grey Ghost – a friendly Low Country spirit that alerts residents of impending storms. The Grey Ghost Bakery’s Lemon Sugar Cookie is a sofi finalist.

— A product with an amusing name is Counting Sheep Coffee. While there’s a bold roast as well as an extra strong variety, you guessed it – they’re caffeine-free.

Downton Abbey Tea from the Republic of Tea – Photo Courtesy of the Republic of Tea (Novato, CA)

— I couldn’t help noticing Republic of Tea’s line of Downton Abbey’s teas. There’s a “Lady Cora’s Evening Tea,” a “Mrs. Patmore’s Pudding Tea” and a few other varieties.

I’m so glad the Specialty Food Association has been holding the Show again in New York (after a few years in Washington DC).

Tagged Big Bite Brittle, Chocolat Moderne, Counting Sheep COffee, Fancy Food Show, Gearharts FIne Chocolates' Pistachio Toffee, Grey Ghost Bakery, Seth Greenberg's Authentic New York Brownie Crunch, Specialty Food Show, The Muffkie, Valrhona, Wicked Jack's Tavern

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