Dufflet Pastries | Dessert Surveillance

Dec 20 2015

Cake

Buche de Noel Cakes

Caramel Chocolate Buche de Noel Cake, from Dufflet Pastries – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

Since cake decoration is not my forte (a gross understatement to be sure), I’m quite impressed with elaborate cakes. And a great example of a fancy (and labor-intensive) cake is the Buche de Noel.

Buche de Noel Cake from We Take the Cake (Ft. Lauderdale, FL) – Photo Courtesy of Williams-Sonoma

A Buche de Noel Cake resembles a Yule Log. Yule Logs were burnt by ancient Europeans to commemorate the Winter Solstice and today Buche de Noel Cakes help usher in the Christmas season.

So what is a Buche de Noel made of? Often a sheet of a Sponge Cake which is spread with a filling and then rolled up lengthwise. Icing or Chocolate Ganache, covers the log. Striations in the icing resemble bark and mushrooms (made out of Buttercream or Meringue) and other decorations complete the outdoor scene.

Honey Nougat Buche de Noel Cake from Dufflet Pastries – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

As you’ll see, Buche de Noel Cakes are available in a variety of classic as well as modern flavors.

Cake Bakeshop’s Buche de Noel Cake – Photo Courtesy of Cake Bakeshop (Manhattan Beach, CA)

While the Cake Bakeshop (Manhattan Beach, CA) offers a classic Buche de Noel with Chocolate Cake and Vanilla Cream, there’s a twist. A small gnome stands guard over the Cake and winter scene. Cake Bakeshop Owner Laura Mandracchia said she’s toyed with the idea of offering different flavors, but her classic Cake is getting more and more popular. Laura also believes that Buche de Noel Cakes overall are gaining in popularity — not just traditional, fun versions like hers, but also the super fancy types.

Fleur de Cocoa’s Buche de Noel Cake – Photo Courtesy of Fleur de Cocoa (Los Gatos, CA)

Craig Anderson of Fleur de Cocoa (Los Gatos, CA) isn’t sure if Buche de Noel Cakes are becoming more popular but his kitchen staff told him Costco is now carrying them. So perhaps they are more popular (and more mainstream). Fleur de Cocoa’s namesake, and most popular, Buche de Noel Cake contains Dark Chocolate Mousse and Chocolate Sponge Cake lightly soaked with Grand Marnier. But there are three other varieties, including one with Dark Chocolate Marion Berry Mousse, Marion Berry Coulis, and Dark Chocolate Sponge Cake.

Three Chocolate Buche de Noel from Douceur de France – Photo Courtesy of Douceur de France (GA)

Six types of Buche de Noel Cake are available at Douceur de France (Marietta and Roswell, GA). The most popular Buche de Noel Cake is the classic Chocolate Buche. Other varieties include: the Three Chocolate Buche; the Ardechois (Chestnut Bavarois [similar to a Mousse], with a center of pears sautéed in vanilla and honey, all encased in a gingerbread cookie crust; and the Madagascar (Vanilla Cream with Hazelnut Cremeux [similar to a Pudding] on top of a crunchy Almond Paste Crust with Hazelnut Streusel on the side. The co-owner, Danielle Beaudet, had this to say about Buche de Noel Cakes: “I have noticed that recently Buche have become much more popular in the U.S. When I first moved here, almost no one knew about them. Now we are literally making hundreds for our Atlanta clients! Most Americans, I think, prefer the traditional Chocolate Buche de Noel…”

A Slice of Dufflet Pastries’ Buche de Noel Cake – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

Toronto-based Dufflet Pastries has been offering Buche de Noel Cakes seasonally for 35 years and they’re an annual tradition for many families as well as a mainstay at many office holiday parties. While some of Dufflet’s flavors and designs change each year, the Hazelnut Buche de Noel has been a best seller for many years — at Dufflet’s stores as well as through its wholesale division. This is a Hazelnut Sponge rolled with Hazelnut Mousse and glazed with Hazelnut Crunch Milk Chocolate Ganache. Also on the Buche de Noel line-up is a gluten-free Caramel Chocolate version, with Chocolate Sponge, Caramel Whipped Cream, Bittersweet Chocolate, and Gold-Dusted Chocolate Leaves.

Madagascar Buche de Noel from Douceur de France - Photo Courtesy of Douceur de France (GA)

Ardechois Buche de Noel from Douceur de France – Photo Courtesy of Douceur de France (GA)

So many Buche. So little time.

Tagged Cake Bakeshop, Douceur de France, Dufflet Pastries, Fleur de Cocoa

Jan 05 2015

Dessert Wish List

Grilled Coffee Cake from Southport Grocery and Cafe

Grilled Coffee Cake from Southport Grocery and Café – Photo Courtesy of Southport Grocery and Café (Chicago)

Around this time last year I devoted a posting to favorite desserts of mine that, sadly, are no longer available. I’ll be more optimistic this year, and instead, will focus on desserts which I hope will start receiving the attention they deserve.

Here’s my Dessert Wish List:

Buttercup Bake Shop’s Blueberry Coffee Cake – Photo Courtesy of Buttercup Bake Shop (NYC)

Coffee Cake: It’s funny—when I was younger I didn’t give Coffee Cake a second glance. It was the rich, fancy desserts that captured my fancy. While I still enjoy gooey desserts, now I often find myself craving Coffee Cake. And lest anyone think Coffee Cake is only a “Plain Jane” dessert, the image at the top of this posting, of Southport Grocery’s Grilled Coffee Cake, shows that Coffee Cake can certainly be gussied up. My wish is to see Coffee Cake appear more frequently on restaurant/bakery menus and to change its image—from that of a brunch/breakfast food only to one of a Dessert that can be enjoyed any time. (Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on Coffee Cake.)

Graeter’s Mocha Chocolate Chip Ice Cream – Photo Courtesy of Graeter’s (Cincinnati)

Coffee-Based Desserts: Granted, this is a very broad category, encompassing Coffee Ice Cream, Mocha Cake, Espresso Cookies and Biscotti, Chocolate Bars with Coffee, and much more. In addition to relishing the jolt from the java, I adore the taste of Coffee, and think it enhances most desserts. One of my favorite Coffee Desserts is Graeter’s Mocha Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. Since Coffee pairs so beautifully with so many dessert ingredients, my wish is for the rich tang of Coffee to be found in all manner of desserts—from fancy pastries to homey Chocolate Chip Cookies and Brownies to luxurious cream-based Desserts.

A Slice of Tres Leches Cake from Ruggles Cafe Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Ruggles Cafe Bakery (Houston)

Tres Leches Cake: I can’t overlook one of my favorite Milk/Cream-based Desserts—Tres Leches Cake, a Cake made with three different types of Milk/Cream. It’s one of these simple Desserts that’s just amazing. Of course it can be spruced up so it’s no longer simple. My all-time favorite Tres Leches Cake sported a Cheesecake layer, in addition to a Raspberry filling. And, unfortunately, it’s no longer available at my local Mexican restaurant although a Salted Caramel Tres Leches Cake is on the menu. My wish is for Tres Leches Cakes to be available at most bakeries and restaurants.

Tiny Tarts from Dufflet Pastries – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

Smaller-Size Portions of Desserts: Anyone who reads the Dessert Surveillance blog knows that I’m a Dessert Glutton—I just love Desserts and can’t get enough of them. To prevent my cholesterol level and weight from skyrocketing, I try to ration my dessert intake. (Of course during the holidays, I’ve been a bit, shall we say, lax, in my rationing, but I digress.) That’s why I welcome the smaller-size dessert trend. It saves me from having to cut a Dessert in half and either enjoying the 2nd half the next day or trashing the 2nd half. To be brutally honest—it’s not so much that the smaller size saves me fat, calories, and sugar. It’s more that I can indulge in two desserts instead of one!

Small Pastries from Wanda’s Pie in the Sky – Photo Courtesy of Wanda’s Pie in the Sky (Toronto)

All the best wishes for a wonderful 2015 filled with delicious Desserts!

Tagged Buttercup Bake Shop, Dufflet Pastries, Graeter's, Ruggles Cafe Bakery, Southport Grocery and Cafe, Wanda's Pie in the Sky

Sep 04 2014

2 Comments

French Pastries

Eclairs

A variety of Eclairs from Éclair Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Éclair Bakery (NYC)

A recent Wall Street Journal article described some U.S. bakeries’ and consumers’ fascination with lesser known French pastries – Caneles, Paris Brest, etc.

This got me thinking. What about well known French pastries — Napoleons, Croissants, and Éclairs? While I was hungrily eyeing up a gorgeous Almond Croissant this past weekend, it’s generally the Éclairs that capture my attention and lead me to gluttony. (I’m pleased to report that I resisted the Croissant temptation — for now.). So let’s look at Éclairs.

Espresso Éclair from Maison Kayser – Photo Courtesy of Maison Kayser (NYC)

An Éclair is a long pastry made with pate a choux dough (a sticky dough). It is usually filled with custard or whipped cream and is then iced. While it seems complicated, pate a choux dough is supposed to be relatively easy to put together. Of course anything involving a pastry bag makes me want to run.

Are Éclairs becoming more popular?

Raspberry Éclair from Éclair Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Éclair Bakery (NYC)

Stephane Pourrez, owner and head pastry chef of New York City-based Éclair Bakery, said “When I started to work in NYC a few years ago, the macaron was one of the most popular items. The macaron is still very popular but I can notice now a real passion for Éclairs.”

Chocolate Éclairs from Maison Kayser – Photo Courtesy of Maison Kayser (NYC)

A spokesperson for Maison Kayser, a French bakery/cafe with branches in New York City, had this to say: “The Éclair is part of the very classic French pastry. Today there is a resurgence in returning to the basics, the classics and to more simple things. The Éclair illustrates this trend.” And Maison Kayser’s most popular Éclair flavor? A very classic Chocolate.

Gibassier from Patisserie 46 – Photo Courtesy of Patisserie 46 (Minneapolis)

Mandy Heathcote, Catering Director for Minneapolis-based Patisserie 46, points out that more and more European pastry shops are popping up throughout the States. So it’s not surprising that classic European pastries are becoming more popular in this country.

Of course these classics can be updated.

An assortment of special Eclairs from Maison Kayser – Photo Courtesy of Maison Kayser (NYC)

As Maison Kayser’s spokesperson explains “….there are trends in making these pastries lighter and less sweet overall. Today pastry chefs express more creativity as well and have improved their techniques, allowing them to work more with flavor — fresh fruits for example — and reduce the amount of sugar being used and also to produce lighter creams.” And as an example of this, Maison Kayser will debut a Blackberry/Raspberry Éclair in October.

Pineapple, Cheesecake, Brownie, and Passion Fruit Eclairs from Éclair Bakery – Photo Courtesy of Éclair Bakery (NYC)

Éclair Bakery’s Stephane Pourrez reports he is working on two unique Éclair flavors — a Brownie Éclair and a Chestnut Rum Éclair. And Éclair’s web site heralds the arrival of two new Éclairs — Pineapple and Cheesecake. Even though Éclair offers a huge number of flavors, the Classic — Vanilla Custard with a Chocolate Glaze — is the most popular. However, Stephane notes the Red Velvet Éclair and the Intense Dark Chocolate Éclairs are also very popular. (I don’t understand why the Coffee Éclair isn’t the most sought after variety, but I digress.)

Caneles from Patisserie 46 – Photo Courtesy of Patisserie 46 (Minneapolis)

Patisserie 46’s Mandy Heathcote notes “We have created ‘savory Éclairs’ for our catering and think these will become very popular.”

Eclairs and other Petit Fours from Dufflet Pastries – Photo Courtesy of Dufflet Pastries (Toronto)

The miniature-dessert trend has spread to Éclairs as well. The only Éclairs Toronto-based Dufflet Pastries offers are part of a bite-size collection of Petit Fours.

I think it’s time I show my appreciation of classic French pastries by indulging in an Éclair!

Tagged Dufflet Pastries, Eclair Bakery, Eclairs, Maison Kayser, Patisserie 46

Dessert Surveillance

the business behind what's delicious

Tag Archives: Dufflet Pastries

Buche de Noel Cakes

Dessert Wish List

Eclairs