Chocolate and Holidays: Part 1 – Valentine’s Day

Chocolates from Laderach Switzerland / Photo Courtesy of Laderach Switzerland

Since I usually prefer to “spend” my fat/carbs/calories on dessert,  I don’t need Valentine’s Day (or any holiday, for that matter), as an excuse to scarf down chocolate and white chocolate. But since Valentine’s Day is fast approaching, I’m especially interested in all things chocolate.

One of Li-Lac’s Valentine’s Day Assortments / Photo Courtesy of Li-Lac Chocolates

First, let’s take a step back and look at the significance of Valentine’s Day. According to The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, Valentine’s Day has metamorphosed from a pagan fertility ritual to a celebration of Christian martyrs, to a saint’s day, to a celebration of love. Interestingly, chocolate has long been associated with romance.

Chocolates from La Maison Du Chocolat / Photo Courtesy of La Maison Du Chocolat

While Valentine’s Day is associated with love, it should also be associated with brisk candy sales. According to stats from The Confectioners Association, 92% of Americans plan to purchase candy for Valentine’s Day, including a staggering 58 million pounds of chocolate.

One of Teuscher’s Chocolate Assortments / Photo Courtesy of Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland

But let’s get to the important stuff – the chocolate itself. When I think of Valentine’s Day, I think of boxed chocolates: individual bonbons, truffles, and other confections. What exactly is a bonbon or a truffle? According to The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, bonbons contain fillings such as creams, fruits, nuts, caramels, jellies, etc., and are enrobed in chocolate. On the other hand, chocolate truffles are made from chocolate ganache and usually enrobed in chocolate. Why are they called “truffles”? You guessed it—because they look like the underground mushroom delicacy.

Li-Lac Chocolates’ Butter Crunch (which includes a layer of milk chocolate) / Photo Courtesy of Li-Lac Chocolates

What can put a damper on chocolate purchases—for treats during the year or for special holidays, such as Valentine’s Day? The price. While fine chocolate has always been expensive, CNN reports that chocolate prices are up 20% this Valentine’s Day. The culprits are years of bad weather in the cocoa-producing region of West Africa and a swollen shoot virus impacting cocoa plants.

Another factor that might negatively impact sales is research showing that chocolate, especially dark chocolate, could contain concerning levels of the heavy metals lead and cadmium. In response to these concerns, the Fine Chocolate Industry Association points out that cadmium is a natural element found in the Earth’s crust, is naturally present in soil, and many healthy foods, such as leafy vegetables, legumes, nuts, fruits, etc., also contain cadmium.

A box of Vegan Chocolate Truffles from Lake Champlain Chocolates / Photo Courtesy of Lake Champlain Chocolates

Moving on to some promising chocolate developments…As reported in Plant Based News, the vegan and dairy-free chocolate market is expected to experience enormous growth over the next several years and is projected to reach a very hefty $4 billion by 2032.

Strawberries & Cream Heart (with white chocolate) from Bien Cuit / Photo Courtesy of Bien Cuit

Here’s to enjoying delicious chocolate (including white chocolate, of course) throughout the year!

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Jelly Doughnuts, Buche de Noel, Stollen, and Panettone: Holiday Treats

Crosstown Doughnuts’ Jelly Doughnuts with Homemade Raspberry Jam / Photo Courtesy of Crosstown Doughnuts (London)

With Chanukah and Christmas approaching, I can’t help but think of all the holiday-centered sweets—Jelly Doughnuts, Buche de Noel, Stollen, and Panettone.

Buche de Noel from Flour Bakery + Cafe / Photo Courtesy of Flour Bakery + Cafe (Boston)

So, what’s the significance of these desserts? (If the truth be told, I don’t need Chanukah as an excuse to scarf down Jelly Doughnuts, but I digress.) Let’s take them, one by one.

Jelly Doughnuts (otherwise known as Jelly Donuts)

Doughnut Plant’s Jelly Doughnuts (with homemade Jam) and Marzipan / Photo Courtesy of the Doughnut Plant (NYC)

The Chanukah holiday commemorates the miracle of a day’s worth of oil lasting for eight days. One of the symbolic traditions is eating foods fried in oil. Yeasted Doughnuts, and specifically Jelly Doughnuts (known as Sufganiyot)  have become popular as a Chanukah treat. And Jelly Doughnuts have certainly gone upscale. Now you can find Doughnuts with homemade Strawberry, Raspberry, or Blackberry Jam, Doughnuts with a Marzipan and Homemade Jam combination, and Raspberry Doughnuts with Freeze-Dried Raspberries, for textural contrast.

What I find so interesting is the universal appeal of sweetened fried dough. Find Loukouumades (fritters with honey) in Greece, Awwamaat (fried dough with nuts) in Lebanon; Pets de Nonne (fried choux pastry with powdered sugar) in France, and the list goes on.

Buche de Noel

Tropical White Chocolate Buche de Noel from Bien Cuit (with rum syrup, coconut, mango, and guava)/ Photo Courtesy of Bien Cuit (NYC)

A Buche de Noel is a sheet of cake spread with a filling, which is then rolled up. The rolled-up cake is spread with chocolate icing, so it looks like a Yule Log. While the Yule Log might have originated as a Pagan tradition, it is now associated with Christmas, and with the warmth that was needed in the stable for the Christ child. In addition to the beautiful Buche de Noel cakes with meringue mushrooms and other holiday decorations, you can find interesting variations enrobed in White Chocolate, even complete with tropical fillings.

Stollen

Balthazar Bakery’s Stollen/Photo Courtesy of Balthazar Bakery

A  Stollen is a German Christmas Bread and the shape of Stollen symbolizes the infant Jesus in swaddling. Stollen, a yeast bread,  often includes dried or candied fruit, nuts, seeds, Marzipan, and spirits, and is dusted with sugar. Stollen improves with time, unlike most bread.

Panettone

Balthazar Bakery’s Panettone/Photo Courtesy of Balthazar Bakery

Panettone is a rich bread, and its arrival marks the Christmas holiday. According to the Oxford Companion to Italian Food, the top of Panettone is sprinkled with candied sugar, and the inside is replete with dried fruit and candied peels. And the bread is rich with sugar, honey, butter, and eggs, perfumed with vanilla and sometimes liqueurs, and is soft and light.

Breads Bakery’s Strawberry Jelly Doughnuts/Photo Courtesy of Breads Bakery

Here’s to a lovely and joy-filled holiday season (filled with great desserts)!

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Soft-Serve Ice Cream

Four Dang Soft-Serve Cones / Photo Courtesy of Dang Soft Serve

As fall weather starts setting in, my thoughts turn to…soft-serve ice cream. Yep, I firmly believe that just like iced coffee, ice cream should be enjoyed all year long.

Vanila-Chocolate Twist Cone from CVT Soft Serve / Photo Courtesy of CVT Soft Serve

Lately, it seems that soft-serve is the darling of the ice cream world. Why could that be? It’s a fun, tasty dessert. Check. It can make us feel like a kid again. Check. From the perspective of the ice cream purveyor, soft-serve is typically a high-profit margin dessert.  Check again, and this is a big check.

Fritz’s Frozen Custard – Key Lime Flavor of the Day with Graham Crackers, Marshmallow, and Whipped Cream / Photo Courtesy of Fritz’s Frozen Custard

But before we go much further, what’s the difference between soft-serve, regular ice cream, and custard? Soft-serve is dispensed to order by a specialty machine that adds more air to the product during the freezing process, and with more overrun (air), it’s softer than regular ice cream, and has less fat. According to St. Louis Magazine, all custard is soft-serve, but not all soft-serve is custard. What turns soft-serve into custard are eggs (no less than 1.4% by weight).

A just dispensed Like No Udder Maple-Pumpkin Pie Twist Cone – Photo Courtesy of Like No Udder

Why is soft-serve more cost-effective than regular ice cream? Soft-serve doesn’t require expensive batch freezers, blast freezers, and display cases. Also, with more overrun (air), you wind up with more product. Plus, soft-serve is more space-efficient for a retail operation.

CVT Soft Serve’s Soft Serve to Go / Photo Courtesy of CVT Soft Serve

“It was easier to sell a script in this town [Los Angeles] than find good quality soft-serve ice cream.” That’s what the founders of CVT Soft Serve said and what led to the start of their mobile soft-serve venture. Out of its truck, CVT offers Vanilla, Chocolate, and Vanilla-Chocolate Twist flavors, and keeps its toppings to a minimum. It will also rent out its soft- serve machines for sporting events. CVT also offers soft-serve to-go, in pouches. (The to-go pouch option is appealing. Ice cream doesn’t travel well, and  even with pints of regular ice cream, I find myself sprinting back home to prevent a meltdown, but I digress.)  

A Bomb Cyclone from Dang Soft Serve / Photo Courtesy of Dang Soft Serve

Yes, a cyclone is a weather event. It’s also a Soft-Serve ice cream treat chock full of candies and other toppings. Dang Soft Serve’s Toasted Bomb Cyclone is an interesting-sounding concoction containing Torched Marshmallows, Campfire flavor Soft-Serve, Graham Cracker Dust, Oreos, and Fudge. For those seeking a bit less of a carb and sugar hit, Colorado-based Dang Soft Serve also offers cups or cones of its soft-serve. Vanilla, Chocolate, and Vegan options are always available, and additional flavors rotate monthly. Dang wants to be known for its artistic toppings, colorful flavors, dramatic modern setting, as well as its role as a community hub for entertainment, events, and gatherings.

Soft-Serve with Apple Pie Topping from Vaca’s Creamery / Photo Courtesy of Vaca’s Creamery

And speaking of Vegan options, Chicago-based Vaca’s Creamery uses oat milk, almond milk, or coconut milk as the base for most of its offerings. While vanilla and chocolate are standard flavors, be on the lookout for unusual seasonal flavors like Pumpkin Pie and Goth Serve.

A Banana Teddy Graham treat from Morgenstern’s BANANAS / Photo Courtesy of Morgenstern’s BANANAS

Nick Morgenstern (of Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream) created a soft-serve venture, Morgenstern’s Bananas, offering vegan and dairy soft-serve treats. The vegan options rely on bananas or nuts as the base. These are some of the intriguing sounding flavors (not all are vegan): Banana Teddy Graham (Banana Soft-Serve with coconut tapioca, coconut caramel, fresh banana slices and Teddy Graham cookies), Midnight Chocolate Salted Peanut Butter, and Banana Coffee Creamer.

How about White Chocolate Soft-Serve with Lemon Cheesecake Pieces and Lemon Curd Toppings? (Hey, I can dream.)

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Gingerbread

America’s Test Kitchen Gingerbread Snack Cake / Photo Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen

Why focus on Gingerbread in February? Is it due to the laziness of the poster, who couldn’t get the post together earlier? Why, yes. But is it also related to the year-round appeal of Gingerbread? Yes, again.

Dominique Ansel’s Gingerbread Croissant / Photo Courtesy of Dominique Ansel

Before we go much further, let’s define Gingerbread. According to the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, “Gingerbread is a term that applies to a broad category of baked goods, flavored with a combination of spices such as ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, and sweetened with honey, sugar, or molasses. Gingerbreads range from cakes to breads to cookies.” And as you can tell by the image above, you can even find Gingerbread Croissants. (For anyone who might be curious, Dominique Ansel, of Cronut fame, is the creator of this Gingerbread Croissant, and it’s made with Gingerbread-spiced almond frangipane [pastry cream] and topped with pecans and marshmallows.)

Breezy Hill Orchard’s Gingersnap Cookie / Photo Courtesy of Marcia Mermelstein

I guess my adoration of sweets is pretty evident. While I dislike a strong ginger flavor in savory foods, when it comes to dessert, I’m usually all in. I also find the texture of Gingerbread particularly appealing, especially when it’s in the form of thin and chewy cookies.

Pop-Tarts Lodge, Listed on Zillow / Photo Courtesy of Pop-Tarts

Gingerbread turns up in a lot of unexpected places—in Eliksir Gingerbread Gin, in Carb Killa Gingerbread protein bars, and even as a limited Kellogg’s Pop-Tarts flavor. (The snack division of Kellogg’s is now known as Kellanova.) To keep the “gingerbread spirit” going, Kellogg’s created a lodge made out of Pop-Tarts, listed the lodge on real estate platform, Zillow, and sponsored a $15,000 gingerbread contest.  

Working PNC Bank Branch, Made Out of Gingerbread / Photo Courtesy of Bredenbeck’s Bakery (bakers) and PNC

But if you think Kellog’s Pop-Tarts gingerbread-Zillow promotion was a bit over the top, stay tuned for more eye-opening gingerbread news. As reported by American Banker and Adweek in 2015, PNC Financial Services arranged for the construction of a (temporary but functional) gingerbread bank branch made out of 5,000 pounds of Gingerbread. The company situated this branch in Philadelphia. Presumably, to ensure bank customers and staff were not hit by falling Gingerbread walls, they used a wooden frame. PNC used this 12-foot banking novelty to publicize its Christmas Price Index—a calculation of the adjusted prices of the gifts featured in the song, The Twelve Days of Christmas.

Jefferson Market Library Gingerbread Replica – at the Museum of the City of New York – Artist: Maria Sieber of Cray Cray for Cakes / Photo Courtesy of Marcia Mermelstein

Let’s move along to more traditional gingerbread structures—Gingerbread houses. In addition to boosting the reputation of local bakers/artisans, these whimsical models can even comprise museum exhibits, as was the case with the Museum of the City of New York’s Gingerbread Borough Bake-Off.

Some of the Gingerbread Houses at Mohonk Mountain House / Photo Courtesy of Mohonk Mountain House

Gingerbread houses can also be a force for good. In 2023, The Food Bank of The Hudson Valley raised $25,000 through a Gingerbread Competition, held at Mohonk Mountain House, a resort in New Paltz, NY. Mohonk publicized this competition, raised money through day passes and its Executive Pastry Chef, Audrey Billups, was one of the competition judges.

Costco’s Gingerbread Muffins / Photo Courtesy of Costco

Let’s hear it for all kinds of Gingerbread desserts!

L

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Bread Pudding

Boucherie New Orleans’ Krispy Kreme Bread Pudding / Photo Courtesy of Bourcherie New Orleans

Bread Pudding gets my vote for “Dessert Chameleon.” This indulgent treat varies dramatically depending on add-ins. At its simplest, Bread Pudding consists of stale (or dried-out) bread combined with milk and eggs. But here’s where it gets interesting. When you add other ingredients—like white chocolate (my personal favorite, but I digress), fruit, chocolate, nuts, liquor, and sauces—the flavor, texture, and character of the Pudding is greatly enhanced. 

Bien Cuit’s Coffee Bread Pudding / Photo Courtesy of Bien Cuit

And it’s the adaptability of Bread Pudding that adds to its appeal. Rosetta Sellers, of New York’s Bien Cuit Bakery, noted that she wouldn’t be surprised if more people weren’t making/enjoying this treat. “It’s a classic dessert whose versatility allows you to relish it in various flavors. We typically offer one variety of Bread Pudding at a time and change the recipe 2-3 times a year.” Bien Cuit’s varieties have included Bourbon Pear Bread Pudding, Croissant Bread Pudding, Tropical Winter Bread Pudding, Coffee Bread Pudding, and the current offering as of this post, Cherry Star Anise.  (I never thought of baking with ice cream, but Bien Cuit’s Coffee Bread Pudding is made with, you guessed it, Coffee Ice Cream.)

Bourbon-Whiskey-Caramel-Donut-Bread-Pudding from Angel Food Bakery + Donut Bar / Photo Courtesy of Angel Food Bakery + Donut Bar

Restaurants have plenty of other reasons to be Bread Pudding fans. This tasty treat is restaurant kitchen-friendly, as it can be prepared in advance, baked in a large pan or individual dishes, and served hot or cold. Better yet, it’s a very cost-effective dessert as its base is leftover, stale bread (or even cake). 

Banana Bread Pudding: a Partnership Between Chobani and United Airlines / Photo Courtesy of Chobani and United Airlines

Years ago, United Airlines passengers (on select flights) could opt for Banana Bread Pudding for breakfast. The base, Banana Bread with butterscotch chips, was added to a vanilla egg custard and livened up with oats, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Sounds way too decadent for breakfast? Since Chobani was involved, vanilla Greek yogurt stood in for heavy cream. (I generally prefer not to squander my sugar allotment early in the morning, but I digress.) 

Adding to the list of no longer available Bread Puddings: Kozy Shack, the purveyor of puddings and custards found in supermarket refrigerated cases, offered three types: Apple Cinnamon, Cinnamon Raisin, and Peach.

Let’s briefly touch on the history of Bread Pudding. According to an article in the Knoxville News-Sentinel, “Bread Pudding originated in Europe and was considered a poor man’s food because it was prepared using stale bread, water, sugar, and spices. One theory is its introduction to the United States came by way of Louisiana’s Creole Cuisine, which embodies a variety of culinary influences…”

Boucherie New Orleans Restaurant (home of the Krispy Kreme Bread Pudding) / Photo Courtesy of Boucherie New Orleans

And New Orleans is certainly no stranger to Bread Puddings. While Pudding varieties abound, chefs often incorporate local ingredients like pecans and French bread, and to add a little kick, they might top the Puddings with sauces spiked with bourbon or rum. Boucherie New Orleans’ Bread Pudding is the “Krispy Kreme.” According to Boucherie’s Sara Roberts, Krispy Kreme is the most popular dessert. It’s been on the menu since day one and is the dessert served at most of the restaurant’s catered events. When I asked if Boucherie planned to add to its Bread Pudding line-up, Sara said the chef likes to say, “Don’t fix what isn’t broken.”

Minneapolis Airport Location of Angel Food Bakery + Donut Bar (home of the Bourbon-Whiskey-Caramel-Donut-Bread Pudding) / Photo Courtesy of Angel Food Bakery + Donut Bar

This anecdote from Cynthia Gerdes, who owns Angel Food Bakery + Donut Bar in Minneapolis, along with her daughter, Katy, illustrates not just the adaptability of Bread Pudding but the need to think on your feet!  

“Way back in 2012, when we opened, Angel Food Bakery + Donut Bar almost instantly got a ton of press because our bakers always make their magic in an open kitchen where customers could actually sit and watch them in action.

The Cooking Channel called and sent out a camera crew from NYC for their Unique Sweets show. Toward the end of the filming, the producer said, ‘OK, Katy…now we want to shoot you making your signature item, and then we’ll be done.’

Katy whipped her head around and said, ‘But we just opened the shop a few weeks ago with lines out the doors…there hasn’t been enough time for me to create a signature item yet.’ Needless to say, the producer wasn’t happy, so Katy blew through the bakery counter, grabbing a few donuts, some other pastries, this’ n that, and created this Bourbon-Whiskey-Caramel-Donut-Bread-Pudding-Loaf on the spot. That’s why the name is so long (it really does have all of these ingredients), and believe it or not, after that segment aired, it DID become our best-seller…”

Bien Cuit’s Croissant Bread Pudding (Sharing the Plate with a Salted Caramel Cake) / Photo Courtesy of Bien Cuit

Let’s hear it for Bread Puddings, one of the most versatile (not to mention tasty) desserts!

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Rugelach

Kenny & Ziggy’s Rugelach (Three Different Flavors) / Photo Courtesy of Kenny & Ziggy’s

Let’s get a good description of “Rugelach.” (My definition, which is “ A delicious, rich cookie-pastry, even more scrumptious if raspberry jam is involved,” probably won’t cut it so let’s move on,) According to noted Jewish cuisine cookbook author, Joan Nathan, Rugelach are crescent-shaped cookies, originating in Europe. They’ve become one of the most mainstream Jewish desserts.

Culinary Combo Bakery’s Apricot and Raspberry Rugelach / Photo Courtesy of Culinary Combo Bakery

As with so many other foods, recipes for Rugelach have been tweaked over the years. When made in Europe, sour cream was often used. But with the popularity of Philadelphia brand Cream Cheese in this country, Rugelach became associated with a cream cheese dough.

New York Style Chocolate Rugelach from Pariser’s Bakery / Photo Courtesy of Pariser’s Bakery

While the dough is quite tasty, I think the real appeal of Rugelach is the filling.

Culinary Combo Bakery’s Raspberry Nutella Rugelach / Photo Courtesy of Culinary Combo Bakery

Southfield, Michigan-based Culinary Combo Bakery offers the more traditional flavors– Apricot, Raspberry, and Chocolate—along with Apricot Walnut Raisin, Cinnamon, and in the fall, Apple. And this bakery has also experimented with slightly more exotic flavors—Cranberry and Raspberry Nutella. Here’s what a Culinary Combo Bakery owner had to say about the inspiration for some of the different flavors: “Honestly, we get bored, and we say, ‘let’s try something new.’ Sometimes it works out great, like our newest flavor, Cinnamon. But other times it’s a miss and we have to go back to the drawing board.”

Date Rugelach from Pariser’s Bakery / Photo Courtesy of Pariser’s Bakery

Motti Margalit, owner of Pariser’s Bakery in Baltimore, Maryland, bakes two types of rugelach: a New York style, which is flaky, and an Israeli style which is yeast-based. A variety of flavors are on the line-up: Chocolate; Cinnamon; Cinnamon Raisin; and Raspberry. When I asked about one of his more unusual flavors, Date, (the other is Fig), Motti explained that a friend’s mother in Israel baked Date Cookies. And in fact, he imports the Date spread as it’s not available in this country. Motti said he’ll hold off adding to his Rugelach line-up since it can be difficult to obtain supplies now.

Kenny & Ziggy’s Raspberry Rugelach / Photo Courtesy of Kenny & Ziggy’s

While we might not associate Rugelach with the state of Texas, these treats are popular menu items for Kenny & Ziggy’s, a Houston-based deli. As Ziggy Gruber expected, his early Jewish customers were familiar with them. But he was surprised at how many Houstonians knew exactly what they were, even to the point of making comparisons with other Rugelach they sampled. Interestingly, sales of the different flavors are seasonal. Chocolate is more popular in winter months, Raspberry in the spring and summer, and Apricot in the spring and fall. While Kenny & Ziggy’s sells roughly equal amounts of these varieties, since Apricot is favored by Rugelach traditionalists, it might have a slight edge.

Mr. Lee With His Rugelach / Photo Courtesy of Lee Lee’s Bakery

Think only Jewish bakers create Rugelach? Think again. Alvin Lee Small, known as Mr. Lee, is an African American baker and owner of Lee Lee’s Baked Goods in New York City’s Harlem neighborhood. He was a baker at a New York hospital and began tweaking a Rugelach recipe, convinced he could improve on it.

Festival of Lights Ice Cream Cone / Photo Courtesy of Ample Hills Creamery

Why should chocolate sandwich cookies have all the fun? Yep, that’s right. Rugelach has joined the ice cream party. Brooklyn-based Ample Hills Creamery combines pieces of Court Street Grocers’ Raspberry Rugelach with a cream cheese ice cream. Sadly, this flavor, Festival of Lights, is only available around the Chanukah holiday—and its distribution is limited to Ample Hills’ scoop shops. Another Rugelach-ice cream combo can be found at Lee Lee’s Baked Goods. Mr. Small adds his rugelach to vanilla ice cream that he crafts from scratch with farm-fresh milk.

New York Style Cinnamon Raisin Rugelach from Pariser’s Bakery

So, is Rugelach a cookie? A small pastry? Hmm, as long as we enjoy them, does it really matter?                                                            

Linzer Cookies

Homemade Linzer Cookies/Photo credit: Marcia Mermelstein

Which Cookie is: a colorful and popular addition to Cookie trays, a staple of Christmas Cookie exchanges, a Valentine’s Day favorite, and even a mainstay of some Jewish-style and kosher bakeries? Yes, that’s right, the delightful Linzer Cookie. But before we talk about its adaptability, let’s briefly cover its origin.

Linzer Tortes originate in the Austrian city of Linz. (What’s the difference between a “torte” and a “cake”? Well, it depends on whom you ask. Some equate “torte” with “cake.” But it can also refer to a flourless cake or a fancy cake.) While variations abound, Linzer Torte dough, typically rich with butter, almonds, lemon zest, spices, and sometimes flour, is filled with jam. A pretty lattice top completes the torte. Linzer Cookies, the “progeny” of Linzer Tortes, typically are buttery, nutty sandwich Cookies filled with jam. A window is cut out of the top Cookie to see the contrasting jam center, and powdered sugar can be sprinkled on top.

Best Damn Cookies’ Amoro Linzer Cookies/Photo credit: Simon Leung Photo

Unlike drop Cookies, rolled and cut Cookies, like Linzers, can take a variety of shapes—from circles to squares, to heart shapes for Valentine’s Day, to trees for Christmas, to dreidels for Chanukah. (A handy tip for those of us who believe that the function of the Cookie is to hold the jam: In her book, Rose’s Christmas Cookies, Rose Levy Beranbaum explained she likes making Linzers as squares because that shape offers the best ratio of jam to Cookie.) 

Best Damn Cookies’ Carrot-Citrus Rye Linzers (along with other Cookies it offers)/Photo credit: Best Damn Cookies

Mo Sahoo, of Best Damn Cookies in Manhattan, thinks Linzer Cookies permit chefs to use their imagination to create something that speaks to them. As an example, its Carrot-Citrus Rye Linzers (developed in conjunction with Gertie, a modern diner in Brooklyn) add earthy tones, as compared with more traditional Linzer Cookies that are often bright in flavor. Mo also thinks Linzers have a very interesting history, which adds to their popularity. Best Damn Cookies offers a special Linzer Cookie for Valentine’s Day, an Amoro—a chocolate-hazelnut Cookie with a blood orange marmalade filling. And different Linzers are on the Cookie line-up over the next year.

But it’s not just the shape of the Cookie that makes them so versatile. The dough or filling can be varied. As noted in a Philadelphia Inquirer article (December 14, 2017), Linzer Cookies have been adapted for American tastes and you can even find Linzers with caramel. (I’ve been dreaming of Buttery Walnut Cookies with a Coffee Caramel filling, but I digress.)

Classic Linzer Cookies/Photo credit: King Arthur Baking

Which states are the biggest fans of Linzer Cookies? Well, if we use online search activity as our metric, people in the Northeast are real Linzer devotees. The top five states are: Maine; New Jersey; Rhode Island; Vermont; and Massachusetts. With their strong (and wonderful!) Wedding Cookie Table tradition, I’m surprised Pennsylvania, Ohio, and West Virginia are not in the Top 10. But then again, many different kinds of (fabulous) Cookies adorn Cookie Tables at weddings in these three states.

Here’s to a sweet Valentine’s Day (with or without Linzer Cookies)!                    

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Egg Creams

A homemade Egg Cream/Photo credit: Marcia Mermelstein

Dessert Surveillance is back after a (rather long) hiatus. While my husband and I have had to modify our diets, thankfully, writing, reading, and thinking about desserts is carb-free!

For this post, I’m focusing on a dessert that’s a drink—Egg Creams.

How to make an Egg Cream

How to make an Egg Cream/Photo credit: Fox’s U-Bet: Gold’s Brand

So, how many eggs are in an Egg Cream, and what’s the quantity of cream? Guess what? These ingredients aren’t part of this magic elixir. Instead, it’s a delicious mixture of seltzer, milk, and syrup, and the syrup of choice is Fox’s U-Bet Chocolate Syrup. Strongly carbonated seltzer is vital. Chocolate is the traditional flavor, and while I believe Egg Cream tradition should be respected, let’s not get too hasty in condemning Vanilla or Coffee Egg Creams. (At the Brooklyn candy store I frequented, pretzel rods were served with Egg Creams, a surprisingly tasty pairing, but I digress.)

An early Fox'x U=Bet Syrup delivery truck
An early Fox’s U-Bet delivery truck/Photo credit: Fox’s U-Bet-Gold’s Brand

Egg Cream history is a little murky, but there’s consensus that this treat originated around the early 20th century in New York City (probably the Lower East Side of Manhattan or Brooklyn) and is tied to the Eastern European Jewish immigrant experience. Fountain drinks were typically served at candy stores, drugstores, and soda fountains, and a big appeal was social—being able to enjoy these beverages with others companionably. From the vantage point of the store owner, drinks “fancier” than plain seltzer commanded higher prices and were therefore more lucrative.

What’s the present-day egg cream situation? To get a (very, very) rough sense of how popular egg creams are now, I performed some (highly) unscientific web research, looking (well, sometimes drooling) at online menus of 112 ice cream parlors, soda fountains, delis, candy stores, and diners across the country. My results: out of 27 New York Metro area-based purveyors, 11 offered Egg Creams (41%). However, once you leave New York, Egg Creams are harder to find. Only 7 of 85 non-New York establishments listed this sweet treat on their menus (8%). Of course, we have to keep in mind that Egg Creams don’t travel well, and therefore, might not be listed on delivery/take-out menus. For example, I confirmed with Jake Dell, third-generation family owner of NYC-based Katz’s Deli, that Katz’s is still offering Chocolate Egg Creams in its restaurant, although you can’t order them from its to-go menu. 

Are Egg Creams becoming more popular? I posed this question to a NYC-based luncheonette as well as a soda fountain based in Southern California.

Egg Creams at NYC-based Lexington Candy Shop
Lexington Candy Shop’s Vanilla and Chocolate Egg Creams/Photo credit: Lexington Candy Shop

Lexington Candy Shop (based in Manhattan)—John Philis, third-generation owner, believes Egg Creams are becoming more popular as a result of social media and thinks Egg Cream seekers fall into one of three groups: (1) New Yorkers who are old enough to remember Egg Creams (2) Younger New Yorkers who have heard about Egg Creams but haven’t yet tried them since they’re not so easy to find (3) Tourists who found out about Egg Creams and are eager to sample them when they’re in the Big Apple. Lexington Candy Shop was featured on a Travel Channel Food Paradise episode, and that’s led to more Egg Cream traffic to his store. Regarding flavors: While Chocolate reigns supreme, and Vanilla is second, Lexington Candy has regulars, coming in every day for Coffee Egg Creams. (Perhaps it’s a good thing Coffee Egg Creams weren’t popular when I was growing up. I’d be even more of a coffee fiend than I am now, but I’m digressing again.)

The soda fountain at Soda Jerks Santa Monica Pier
The soda fountain at Soda Jerks Santa Monica Pier/Photo credit: Soda Jerks Santa Monica Pier

Soda Jerks Santa Monica Pier—owner Kevin McCafferty said it was hard to say if Egg Creams are becoming more popular. Most of his Egg Cream-ordering guests are from New York City, and they know about Egg Creams from their own research. At Soda Jerks Santa Monica, Egg Creams are competing with a wide variety of sundaes, ice creams, and other specialty drinks. Kevin McCafferty also reports that Chocolate is his best-selling Egg Cream, followed by Vanilla and then Coffee.

It will be interesting to see if Egg Creams follow what I’m calling the “Bagel Route” and become less tied to New York and more of a nationally available item.

A very healthy, happy, and sweet New Year to all!    

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Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar

Logo of the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar - Image Courtesy of the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar

Logo of the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar – Image Courtesy of the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar

Artisanal food fairs and shows are fun.  I like discovering new and hot products and enjoy hearing the stories of food entrepreneurs.  And product sampling, particularly when Sweets are involved, is just gilding the lily!  From the vantage point of food entrepreneurs, these shows can be a great way to build demand and ultimately generate wider distribution for their products.  (I know I usually wind up purchasing at least a few treats, but I digress.)  Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on The Big Chocolate Show.

At the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar in New York City, I was surprised to see so many vegan and healthier Dessert offerings.    

Brownies and Blondies from Pure Genius - Photo Courtesy of Pure Genius (NYC)

Brownies and Blondies from Pure Genius – Photo Courtesy of Pure Genius (NYC)

Brooklyn-based Pure Genius crafts Brownies and Blondies that are high in protein and fiber and relatively low calorie.  They are also vegan, gluten-free, nut-free, and soon to be verified non-GMO.  What makes them high in protein and fiber?  Chickpeas.  Pure Genius’ founder, Nancy Kalish, has a sweet tooth but wanted to eat healthier Desserts.  She didn’t like what was available so she decided to create some healthy but much tastier options herself.  After hundreds of attempts, Pure Genius was born.  Different flavors/varieties are in the works.  Currently, Pure Genius’ Brownies and Blondies are available in Whole Foods stores in New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut, and in other stores in the Northeast and Southeast.  

A Brinkles treat - Photo Courtesy of Brinkles (NYC)

Brinkles Treats – Photo Courtesy of Brinkles (NYC)

For those wishing to indulge in more decadent Desserts, the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar delivers.  Choices include Cupcakes, Bruffins (a brioche-like pastry with fillings), Brinkles (amped up rice cereal treats), Macaroons, Macarons, and more.

Rhona Hershkowitz, founder of Gold Dust Bakes (NYC), at the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar

Rhona Hershkowitz, founder of Gold Dust Bakes (NYC), at the Artisanal Sweet Treats Bazaar

And if your tastes run more to elaborate, show-stopping layer cakes, you can create them yourself – with some help from New York-based Gold Dust Bakes.  This firm offers Cake Design Kits, which include a design for a Cake, a photo of it, detailed instructions, and the items needed for decorating it.  You supply the basic Cake and Frosting.   Six different core designs are available, with a new and different design rotating each month.  Founder Rhona Hershkowitz, is an interior designer as well as a skilled baker and cake decorator. Her goals are to help bakers gain confidence in their Cake decorating skills as well as build a community of people who love to bake.  As Rhona notes: Baking transports us to another world and is making us happier. 

I know baking makes me happier!

Happy eating and baking!

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The Big Chocolate Show: October 8th -9th in NYC

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH

Waterfront NY Terminal Stores Building – site of The Big Chocolate Show – Photo Courtesy of Waterfront NY Realty (NY)

A new Chocolate Show came to town — The Big Chocolate Show — held at the Waterfront NY Terminal Stores Building in West Chelsea.  Classic American flavors and treats shared the exhibit space with more cutting-edge Chocolate and Desserts.

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TCHO’s Mokaccino Milk Chocolate Bar – Photo Courtesy of TCHO (Berkeley, CA)

TCHO showcased its Chocolate Bars with time-honored flavors, such as Coffee (the Mokaccino Milk Chocolate Bar — made with Blue Bottle Coffee) and Chocolate Mint (the Dark Chocolate Mint Chip Gelato Bar).   But TCHO’s new line will include Chocolate with floral notes, such as Bergamot (a citrus fruit) and spice.   Cat, a member of TCHO’s Sales team, made an interesting observation: Chocolate follows fashion.  And, indeed, we’re now surrounded by clothes and accessories with floral patterns.   (I recently succumbed to the charms of a floral print wallet, but I digress.)

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Lemon-Olive Oil Bonbons from Gotham Chocolate – Photo Courtesy of Gotham Chocolate (NYC)

Speaking of Citrus — an intriguing complement to and star of many Desserts — Gotham Chocolate (an offshoot the well-known New York City-based Gotham Bar and Grill restaurant) displayed its Lemon-Olive Oil Bonbons.  And Christopher Elbow Chocolates offered its Citrus Caramel Collection.

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Moon Pies from Lovie’s Nostalgia – Photo Courtesy of Lovie’s Nostalgia (NYC)

You knew it was a U.S.-based Chocolate Show when you spotted the Moon Pies at the booth of Lovie’s Nostalgia.  What is Moon Pie?  A Southern treat — marshmallow filling sandwiched between two graham crackers, with a coating, often of Chocolate.  Interestingly, Lovie’s Nostalgia is a New York City-based baker.

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Sugarcube Dessert and Coffee’s booth at The Big Chocolate Show – Photo Courtesy of Sugarcube Dessert and Coffee (NYC)

As for the more cutting-edge desserts (literally!), how about geometric Chocolates crafted with molds manufactured by a 3-D printer?  The aptly named Sugarcube Dessert and Coffee sells these treats and others at its New York City bakery and café.  Or Organic Dark Chocolate Matcha Green Tea Bars from VillaKuyaya?

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Eclat Chocolate’s Milk Chocolate Bar with Pennsylvania Dutch Pretzels – Photo Courtesy of Eclat Chocolate (West Chester, PA)

So much chocolate — life is good!  (Of course, I’ll be eating nothing but salad for weeks to compensate for my samples (and purchases!).

 

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