Marciam

Mar 23 2014

Cake

Babka

Eli’s Chocolate and Raisin Nut Babkas (New York City) – Photo Courtesy of Eli’s

Babka is a sweet yeast cake that’s quite adaptable. According to King Arthur Flour and The New York Times, Babka (or Baba) is commonly served on Easter Sunday in many Eastern European countries and is typically baked in a fluted round tube pan. An Americanized Eastern European Jewish version, filled with cinnamon or chocolate and topped with streusel is more like a coffee cake. It’s often baked in a loaf pan and while it’s not a Chanukah dish, it’s often served at Chanukah.

How popular is Babka?

Zucker Bakery’s Chocolate Babka (New York City) – Photo Courtesy of Zucker Bakery

Melissa Feit, a baker and co-owner of New York-based Zucker Bakery, reports “Our [Chocolate] Babka has always been a bakery favorite, but it recently became more popular due to an article written about it on the Serious Eats blog. Since then, our production has greatly increased. We’ve talked about adding more varieties in the near future (possibly including Orange, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, etc.). As far as trends, the weekends become busy when people partake in brunches. And of course, holidays!”

And when both Chocolate and Cinnamon are in the Babka line-up, which is more popular?

Greens & Ackermans’ Round Cinnamon Babka (New York City) – Photo Courtesy of Greens & Ackermans

At Greens & Ackermans, a bakery based in New York with online sales, Chocolate is the more popular Babka variety. Both the Chocolate and Cinnamon Babka are available in different sizes – ranging from a Mini to a Full-Size Loaf to an even larger Round Babka. And Greens is experimenting with new Babka flavors. An interesting trend relayed by Greens: Babka is becoming increasingly popular for corporate gifts.

How has Babka been gussied up?

Chocolate Babka from Breads Bakery (New York City) – Photo Courtesy of Breads Bakery

New York-based Breads Bakery has won acclaim for its Chocolate Babka. What’s in it? Nutella and Chocolate Chips. Breads Bakery’s Uri Scheft said he likes taking classic pastries and putting his unique twist on them. For the Jewish New Year he adds apple to Babka. (Note: on the Jewish New Year, apples are often dipped in honey to symbolize the wish for a Happy New Year.) And around special holidays Uri has added other ingredients, such as halvah (a sweet confection made of crushed sesame seeds and honey) to Babka. (Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on Breads Bakery.)

I’d love to see a Babka with White Chocolate, but then again I love White Chocolate!

Mar 09 2014

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Cake

Carrot Cake

Extraordinary Carrot Cake from Extraordinary Desserts (San Diego, CA) – Photo Courtesy of Extraordinary Desserts

I like Carrot Cake. I really do.

But that doesn’t stop me from thinking that Carrot Cake is a bit like a chameleon. Since Carrots are rich in beta-carotene, Carrot Cake is sometimes viewed as a “health food.” And certainly some recipes for Carrot Cake call for modest amounts of oil or butter and sugar. (Perhaps they’re more Carrot Tea Loafs than Carrot Cakes). But traditional Carrot Cake is usually quite rich and sweet — and is often made even more delectable and decadent with a cream cheese frosting and filling. Yet even these rich Carrot Cakes are still covered by a “health food halo.” In fact, according to Sylvia Lovegren, author of Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads, in the 1970s especially, Carrot Cake was found at many health food restaurants.

Sweet Celebrations: The Art of Decorating Beautiful Cakes by Sylvia Weinstock with Kate Manchester – Photo Courtesy of Simon & Schuster

And in keeping with the Jekyll & Hyde aspect of Carrot Cake, this “health food” is the centerpiece of many celebrations. A recipe for Carrot Cake appears in “Sweet Celebrations: The Art of Decorating Beautiful Cakes” by Sylvia Weinstock, noted wedding cake master baker and decorator.

So, how popular is Carrot Cake?

Carrot Cake from Buttercup Bake Shop (NYC) – Photo Courtesy of Buttercup Bake Shop

Nathaly Abreu, Director of Operations for New York City-based Buttercup Bake Shop said “Our Carrot Cake has gotten more popular through the years. It seems to be that one Cake that everyone comes in asking for. We do make Carrot Cupcakes for special order and if there are extras, we do sell them to our walk-in customers. Seems to me that Carrot Cake is giving Red Velvet Cake a run for the money.” (Also see the Dessert Surveillance posting on Red Velvet Cake.)

A Slice of Super Chunky Carrot Cake from Icing on the Cake Bakery (Los Gatos, CA) – Photo Courtesy of Icing on the Cake Bakery

According to Lynn Magnoli, owner of Icing on the Cake Bakery in Los Gatos, California, “Carrot Cake has been on the Icing on the Cake Bakery menu since day one, 29 years now. It has not lost popularity.” It’s the Bakery’s third most popular Cake (behind Fresh Banana and Chocolate Buttermilk). Known officially as Super Chunky Carrot, this Carrot Cake is studded with raisins and walnuts.

Cookies from Renaissance Confections (NYC) – Photo Courtesy of Renaissance Confections

Renaissance Confections, based in New York City, is known for its Carrot Cake. Renaissance’s founder, Debonda Kay, also thinks Carrot Cake is becoming more popular. “It seems to be everyone’s favorite Cake, and customers can’t get enough of it in any form. We do sell Carrot Cake Cookies — regular ones as well as gluten-free, fat-free and vegan.” Renaissance Confections also sells Carrot Cupcakes.

Two Varieties of Carrot Cupcakes from Carrot Cake by Mike (Orange Spiced Cream Cheese Frosting and Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting) – Photo Courtesy of Carrot Cake by Mike (Seattle, WA)

Mike of Seattle-based Carrot Cake by Mike also thinks Carrot Cake is becoming more popular. “When I started this adventure I thought there would be a small cult following of Carrot Cake purists, but I am amazed at how many people tell me that Carrot Cake is their absolute favorite Cake…” He reports that his most popular Carrot Cake is the 8″ Double Layer Round Cake. “I find that the majority of our individual orders are to families wanting to celebrate the birthday of the Carrot Cake connoisseur of the group. Our 8″ Cake is perfect for 10 – 12 servings and when you make it a double layer those servings are quite generous.” Of the various frosting varieties, the Traditional Cream Cheese frosting is definitely the most popular but people also request the Lemon Cream Cheese frosting and the Coconut Cream Cheese frosting.

Carrot Cake-cup from Bee’s Knees Baking Co. (NYC) – Photo Courtesy of Bee’s Knees Baking Co.

Carrot Cake doesn’t have to look like Carrot Cake. New York City-based Bee’s Knees Baking Co. creates portable Cakes, known as Cake-cups. A Carrot Cake-cup is on the menu and Billy Mayer of Bee’s Knees said that spring brings increased demand for the Carrot variety.

I think it’s time for a slice of “healthy” Carrot Cake!

Tagged Bee's Knees Baking Co., Buttercup Bake Shop, Carrot Cake, Carrot Cake Cookies, Icing on the Cake Bakery, Renaissance Confections

Feb 23 2014

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Oatmeal Cookies

Oatmeal Scotchie Cookie from Schmackary’s Cookies (NYC) – Photo Courtesy of Schmackary’s Cookies

Oatmeal Cookies aren’t showy or glamorous. And in a Cookie tray I suspect they’re often passed over for Brownies or Chocolate Chip Cookies. (I’d actually lunge for the Oatmeal Cookie, but not if the alternatives involved White Chocolate Chunks or Chips.)

I wanted to find out what varieties of Oatmeal Cookies are available and how loyal a following they have. Here’s the Oatmeal Cookie roundup:

Bluebird Bakers’ Browned Butter Oatmeal Cookies (Portland, OR) – Photo Courtesy of Bluebird Bakers

Chickie Massa, of Bluebird Bakers in Portland, Oregon, notes: “Our Browned Butter Oatmeal is our second most popular Cookie, coming right on the heels of our Chocolate Chunk with Sea Salt. We probably sell close to 1500 of them a week, between our wholesale and retail outlets. It is and will be the only Oatmeal Cookie that we offer because I just don’t think I could come up with another one that would be as popular! I don’t know if Oatmeal Cookies are increasing in popularity overall, but demand for the Browned Butter Oatmeal that we make has increased at a steady pace over the years.”

Lark Cake Shop (Los Angeles, CA) – Photo Courtesy of Lark Cake Shop

Three Oatmeal Cookies are in the lineup at Lark Cake Shop in Los Angeles: Cranberry Oatmeal, Chocolate Chip Oatmeal, and Golden Oatmeal. The most popular? Golden Oatmeal.

Anzac Cookies (with Chef Timers) from Icing on the Cake Bakery (Los Gatos, CA) – Photo Courtesy of Icing on the Cake Bakery

Icing on the Cake Bakery in Los Gatos, California offers an assortment of Oatmeal Cookies: an Oatmeal Raisin with Walnuts Cookie, an Oatmeal Butterscotch Cookie, an Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookie, an Anzac Cookie, and an Oatmeal Raisin Cream Sandwich Cookie. Lynn Magnoli, owner of Icing on the Cake, said that Oatmeal Raisin with Walnuts is her most popular Oatmeal Cookie. It’s classic and a top seller, and always has been. When I asked about the popularity of Oatmeal, Lynn remarked “The great thing about Oatmeal is the texture. It will always be a staple ingredient of classic American baked goods.”

Oatmeal Raisin Cookie from Nielsen’s Pastries (Seattle, WA) – Photo Courtesy of Nielsen’s Pastries

At Nielsen’s Pastries in Seattle, Washington, Oatmeal fans can chose between an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie and a Double Chocolate Oatmeal Cookie. Purists can rejoice—the Oatmeal Raisin is more popular.

Oatmeal Raisin Cookie from August First Bakery (Burlington, VT) – Photo Courtesy of August First Bakery

Jodi Whalen of August First Bakery in Burlington, Vermont replies: “Our Oatmeal Raisin Cookie is very popular and we find that there is a population of people who really, really love them. We actually haven’t thought about trying other varieties, but now that you mention it, it might be worth a go (White Chocolate & Cherry?). I haven’t seen an upswing or trend in Oatmeal Cookies here in Vermont. However, we do sell a lot of homemade granola (hot, cold, and by the pound) and our new Apple Crisp, topped with our granola, flies off the shelf. So yes, maybe there is a rise in Oat consumption?”

Oatmeal Cookies (center) from Rosie's Bakery (MA) - Photo Courtesy of Rosie's Bakery

Oatmeal Cookies (center) from Rosie’s Bakery (Massachusetts) – Photo Courtesy of Rosie’s Bakery

Judy Rosenberg of Massachusetts-based Rosie’s Bakery, said the Oatmeal Cookie is very popular. Although it’s made with all natural ingredients, she’s trying out a healthier version with whole grain flour, coconut oil instead of butter, and turbinado sugar instead of regular sugar. Judy thinks a key trend is finding ways to make healthier (but still delicious) versions of our favorite treats.

Schmackary’s Cookies in New York, NY – Photo Courtesy of Schmackary’s Cookies

New York City-based Schmackary’s Cookies is no stranger to Oatmeal Cookies. Flavors are rotated and current Oatmeal offerings include an Oatmeal Scotchie and a Chunky Monkey. Other Oatmeal flavors include: Caramel Apple Crisp; Blueberry Cobbler; Yogi Bare (vegan & gluten-free); White Chocolate Cherry Chunker; and Red, White and Blue. The most popular Oatmeal Cookie? The Oatmeal Scotchie. Zachary Schmahl, Owner/Creator/Cookie Master, explained “Oatmeal Cookies are definitely an area where I’ve been focusing my energy lately on coming up with more flavors.”

Cookies from OatMeals (NYC) – Photo Courtesy of OatMeals

OatMeals, in New York City, is an Oatmeal bar. In addition to bowls of Oatmeal, the cafe also sells baked goods made with Oatmeal. These Oatmeal Cookies are sold every day: Lemon Ginger Oatmeal; Old Fashioned Iced Oatmeal; Chocolate Chip Oatmeal; Classic Oatmeal Raisin; and Iced Pumpkin Oatmeal. The two favorite Cookies are the Iced Pumpkin Oatmeal and the Chocolate Chip Oatmeal. Samantha Stephens, Chef/Owner of OatMeals said “I think Oatmeal is having a revival/resurgence and I’m happy to be spearheading a lot of this movement.”

Oatmeal Raisin Cookies from Uncle Chip’s (Washington D.C.) – Photo Courtesy of Uncle Chips

An Oatmeal Raisin Cookie is on the menu at Uncle Chip’s in Washington D.C. Shannon of Uncle Chip’s mentioned that people “are surprised by how much they like Oatmeal Raisin once they try it. Some of them stick with it, too. I think a lot of what people eat has to do with habits and what they did as children. I had one customer this morning who told me he’s just always been an Oatmeal Raisin Cookie eater and there’s no other way.”

Captain Cookie & the Milkman Logo (Washington D.C.) – Image Courtesy of Captain Cookie & the Milkman

Who says you have to walk into a bakery or a restaurant to satisfy your fix for Oatmeal Cookies? Captain Cookie & the Milkman, in Washington D.C., operates Cookie, Ice Cream, and Milk trucks. The Oatmeal Raisin Cookie is a big draw and some people come to the trucks for that Cookie only. Oatmeal Cookie specials include Oatmeal Chocolate Chip and Oatmeal Raisin with Black Pepper. When customers order Oatmeal Raisin Ice Cream Sandwiches they most often order Vanilla or Black Cherry Ice Cream as the filling for their Sandwiches.

A Salted Oatmeal Cookie Ice Cream Sandwich from Sweet Wheels (Seattle, WA) – Photo Courtesy of Sweet Wheels

Sweet Wheels also sells handmade ice cream sandwiches through a truck. You can get Ice Cream Sandwiches with Salted Oatmeal Cookies. And the Salted Oatmeal Sandwiches are quite popular with the regulars. Ron of Sweet Wheels says “When people read the menu without having had our Ice Cream Sandwiches, they often choose sandwiches with Chocolate Chip Macadamia Cookies. However, when people are returning customers, with some experience eating our Sandwiches, then the Salted Oatmeal Cookie Sandwich is first.”

I had no idea there were so many varieties of Oatmeal Cookies! Clearly, I need to expand my horizons!

Tagged August First Bakery, Bluebird Bakers, Captain Cookie & the Milkman, Icing on the Cake Bakery, Lark Cake Shop, Nielsen's Pastries, Oatmeal Cookies, Oatmeal Raisin Cookies, Rosie's Bakery, Schmackary's Cookies, Sweet Wheels, Uncle Chip's

Feb 09 2014

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Cake, Cupcakes

Red Velvet Cake and Cupcakes

Red Velvet Cake from the Buttercup Bake Shop (NYC) – Photo Courtesy of the Buttercup Bake Shop

With red cake and white frosting (usually cream cheese), Red Velvet Cake and Cupcakes are some of the most striking of desserts.

Although Red Velvet Cake is often thought of as a Southern specialty, its origin may be a little murkier. According to Colman Andrews, author of The Taste of America, Red Velvet Cake was popular at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York in the 1920’s. This might be before it was enjoyed in the South.

How do you get the cake to turn red? Typically red food coloring. However a pigment in cocoa powder (an integral Red Velvet component) helps the red hue along, especially when mixed with acidic ingredients.

Red Velvet is certainly a showy dessert, but is it a popular one? The answer seems to be “yes.”

Red Velvet Cake from SusieCakes Bakeries (Northern and Southern California) – Photo Courtesy of SusieCakes Bakeries

Susie, of SusieCakes Bakeries, located in both Southern and Northern California, said her Red Velvet Cake and Cupcakes are extremely popular.

Red Velvet Cupcake from Bumblebee Bakeshop (San Francisco) – Photo Courtesy of Bumblebee Bakeshop

Red Velvet Cupcakes and Cake are so popular, they’re the top seller for the Bumblebee Bakeshop, based in San Francisco.

Red Velvet Cake from Ruggles Café Bakery (Houston) – Photo Courtesy of Ruggles Café Bakery

Houston-based Ruggles Cafe Bakery offers 30 different desserts on a daily basis. And Red Velvet Cake is one of the 10 most ordered desserts at the bakery. Ruggles’ Alexia Nino speculates that one of the reasons Red Velvet is so well liked is the frosting “….. the general crowd is looking to get their cream cheese frosting fix…”

The Cheesecake Factory’s Ultimate Red Velvet Cheesecake, Distributed by Harry & David – Photo as Seen on the Web Sites of Both Companies

Of the many different Cheesecakes offered by the Cheesecake Factory, Harry & David distributes 9 different ones. It’s probably safe to assume these are the 9 most popular flavors. And yes, you guessed it, Red Velvet Cheesecake is in this group of 9. (Also see the Dessert Surveillance Posting on Cheesecake.)

Blue Dot Donuts' Red Velvet with Cream Cheese Donuts (donuts to the left) - Photo Courtesy of Blue Dot Donuts

Blue Dot Donuts’ Red Velvet with Cream Cheese Donuts (New Orleans) – Photo Courtesy of Blue Dot Donuts

What’s more, Red Velvet is not restricted to Cake and Cupcakes. Blue Dot Donuts in New Orleans offers a Red Velvet and Cream Cheese Donut. “Red Velvet Cake” is a Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream flavor, complete with Red Velvet Cake pieces and a Cream Cheese Frosting Swirl. You can find plenty of recipes for Red Velvet Cookies – usually with a Cream Cheese Frosting or Filling.

Let’s hear it for showy desserts!

Tagged Blue Dot Donuts, Bumblebee Bakeshop, Buttercup Bake Shop, Red Velvet Cake, Red Velvet Cupcakes, Red Velvet Donuts, Ruggles Cafe Bakery, Susiecakes Bakeries

Jan 19 2014

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Muffins

A Nilla Zilla Cuffin (Vanilla with Pudding and Bananas) from Zayna Bakes (Chicago) - Photo Courtesy of Zayna Bakes

A Nilla Zilla (Vanilla with Pudding and Bananas) “Cuffin” from Zayna Bakes (Chicago) – Photo Courtesy of Zayna Bakes

I think I’m cheating a bit with this posting. Strictly speaking, I think Muffins belong in a Breakfast category (and I’ve scarfed down many a Muffin for “Breakfast”). However since the Muffins I’m interested in are sweet and not savory, let’s bend the rules and include them in this Dessert Blog.

Tisserie’s Zucchini Cream Cheese Muffins

When you think of “Muffin” do you think of a Blueberry Muffin only? Blueberry Muffins are very popular and they’re the best selling Muffins for Tisserie, a wholesaler/retailer of baked goods. However, Tisserie’s Ronald Harrar reports that more exotic varieties— such as the Zucchini Cream Cheese Muffin— are also very good sellers. And he noted that while Muffins are very popular, Scones are becoming more and more popular. Not surprisingly, a recently introduced Blueberry Scone has been well received.

Fresh Flours’ Green Tea & Azuki Red Bean Muffin (Muffin in the Front)

And talking about exotic Muffin varieties, the Japanese-inspired Green Tea & Azuki Red Bean Muffin is Fresh Flours’ signature and most popular muffin. Less adventurous Muffin enthusiasts can enjoy Fresh Flours’ Blueberry, Lemon Ginger or Raspberry Oat Muffins.

Nutella Bella Cuffin from Zayna Bakes

If you can’t decide between a Muffin and a Cookie, you can have both if you bite into Zayna Bakes’ Cuffins, a cross between Muffins and Cookies. The most popular Cuffin is the Nutella^®Bella— a treat with both Peanut butter and Nutella^®. The Cuffin was created by accident; Zayna Salloum ran out of flat baking sheets and put Cookie dough in a Muffin tin. Zayna thinks she’s the only baker offering a Cuffin, but she’s heard of a Duffin—- a cross between a Muffin and a Doughnut.

Mind Your Muffin’s Lemon Poppy Muffins

Muffins are generally not known as health foods. After all, they are little Cakes (or in the case of Cuffins, Cookies). However some companies are meeting the growing demand for healthier Muffins. One such bakery is Mind Your Muffin. Its Muffins contain whole grains, have no artificial preservatives or trans fats and are low in carbs and sugar. The most popular Mind Your Muffin product is the Lemon Poppy Muffin. And for customers adhering to a Paleo diet, gluten-free and grain-free Muffins, known as Cave Bites, are offered.

A Williams-Sonoma Muffin Pan

Of course, you can always whip up your own Muffins. They’re easy to make. And with different sizes (and shapes) of Muffin pans, you can bake: Mini Muffins; Texas Muffins (extra-large Muffins); Muffin Tops; and of course Regular Muffins. Enjoy!

Tagged Fresh Flours, Mind Your Muffin, Tisserie, Zayna Bakes

Jan 05 2014

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Blondies, Brownies

Brownies and Blondies – Part 2

Chocolate Chip Blondies from Cake and the Beanstalk

At the end of November, 2013, I investigated the popularity of Brownies vs. Blondies. (See the November 23rd Brownies and Blondies posting.) This was an eye opener for me. Before I conducted this research, I was convinced Brownies were more popular than Blondies. Surprisingly, my research seemed to refute this. But some interesting questions remained. Are Blondies a New York thing? Were Blondies more popular because the companies I spoke to were based in New York (even though they ship their goodies nationwide)?

I’m trying to answer these questions now. And that’s why I’m obtaining information from non-New York-based bakeries/restaurants.

A sign in Cake and the Beanstalk

Dan Klein, owner of Cake and the Beanstalk, a Philadelphia-based coffee bar/bakery said his Blondies are about twice as popular as his Brownies (walnut and plain combined). Blondies are available with mix-ins, and the most popular mix-in is Oreo cookies, followed by Butterfinger bars. Dan indicates that Brownie sales come closer to Blondie sales during the colder months. A sign in Cake and the Beanstalk, above, reflects the popularity of his Blondies—and after a snack of iced coffee and Blondies, I too feel that I can conquer the world!

However, as you’ll see below, bakeries/restaurants in other parts of the country appear to be much more Brownie-oriented.

Goodies from Sweets for the Soul

Los Angeles-based Sweets for the Soul offers 13 kinds of Brownies. According to owner, Lilly LaBonge, the bakery is passionate about chocolate and uses Valrhona chocolate in its Brownies. The most popular Brownie is its Salted Caramel Brownie, with house-made salted caramel. A Blondie, with toasted pecans and white chocolate is available for customers that who don’t want to eat regular chocolate.

A Fudge Brownie from the Corner Bakery Cafe

Corner Bakery Café is a nationwide chain of cafes offering baked goods, breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, pastas, and soups and the company’s corporate headquarters is in Dallas. Two varieties of Brownies are on the line-up: Fudge and Cream Cheese. The Fudge Brownie is the more popular Brownie and in fact it’s one of Corner Bakery Cafe’s top three best-selling sweets. Seasonal flavors round out the offerings. The Sweets menu is Blondie-free.

Cream Cheese Brownies from Piece of Cake in Georgia

To obtain a slightly larger sample size, I looked at the web sites of 16 bakeries. These bakeries are located in: Arizona; California; Georgia; Illinois; Maine; Massachusetts; Minnesota; Nevada; Pennsylvania; Oregon; and Texas.

Of these bakeries:

— 12 offered Brownies but no Blondies

— 3 offered Brownies and Blondies, but the line-up was skewed toward Brownies

— 1 offered Brownies and Blondies, but the line-up was skewed toward Blondies

What to make of this? It appears as though the Brownie is the winner, nationwide, although there are pockets of Blondie fans. And of course, since my sample size is small, it’s impossible to draw definitive conclusions.

However, to show my allegiance to Blondies, I think I’ll enjoy one tonight.

Tagged Cake and the Beanstalk, Corner Bakery Cafe, Sweets for the Soul

Dec 22 2013

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Retired Desserts

La Tempesta’s Biscotti

As it’s the end of the year, I have an excuse to be nostalgic and think about the desserts I’ve enjoyed over the years that are no longer available:

Haagen-Dazs’ Logo

Haagen-Dazs’ Carob Ice Cream: This was available quite a number of years ago, when carob, viewed as a healthy alternative to chocolate, was popular. A few months ago, I gathered research for another blog posting and contacted Haagen-Dazs. I slipped in a question about Carob Ice Cream. Regrettably there are no plans to bring this wonderful flavor back. Carob powder is available at health food stores and occasionally I think about attempting homemade Carob Ice Cream, but I think I might be better off just with the memory of Haagen-Dazs’ great Carob Ice Cream.

Boncora Biscotti

La Tempesta’s Chocolate-Dipped Biscotti: This was a cross between a cookie and a chocolate bar – the best of both worlds. La Tempesta popularized biscotti in this country. Bonnie Lynn Tempesta, the founder of La Tempesta (along with her mother), sold the company in 1997. However, this story has a happy ending. While La Tempesta’s biscotti are not available, Bonnie started another biscotti company, Boncora Biscotti. Two flavors of Boncora Biscotti are available: Almond and Chocolate-Dipped. (I’ve tasted the Chocolate-Dipped and they’re definitely as good as La Tempesta’s biscotti.) When I asked Bonnie about her biscotti flavors, she said in time she would probably introduce other flavors.

Stonewall Kitchen’s White Chocolate Orange Sauce

Stonewall Kitchen’s White Chocolate Orange Sauce: White chocolate-orange isn’t a very popular dessert pairing and it’s a shame because the flavors work so well together. This was my favorite dessert sauce from Stonewall Kitchen and it appears that this product has also been retired. Hopefully my second favorite Stonewall Kitchen dessert sauce, Coffee Caramel Sauce, will be around for a while.

Premier Issue of Chocolatier Magazine

Chocolatier Magazine: Though not a dessert, this publication was definitely a treat for us dessert lovers. The first issue debuted in 1984 and included recipes, profiles of pastry chefs/chocolatiers, information about new products, and dessert highlights of cities and restaurants. Two of my favorite dessert recipes are from Chocolatier: a recipe for White Chocolate Blondies and a White Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe (with 3/4 of a pound of chocolate!). In 2008, the publisher announced it was merging Chocolatier with two of its other publications into Dessert Professional — a resource devoted more to pastry professionals.

A very happy and healthy 2014 to all! May it be a year of wonderful desserts!

Tagged Biscotti, Boncora Biscotti, Chocolatier Magazine, Dessert Sauces, Haagen-Dazs Carob Ice Cream, Ice Cream, La Tempesta Biscotti, Stonewall Kitchen White Chocolate Orange Sauce

Dec 08 2013

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Cake, Cheesecake

Cheesecake

Available online from Harry & David, the Cheesecake Factory’s White Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Cheesecake

Cheesecake — that classic, rich, comfort food dessert has been fancied up and tweaked, although plain cheesecake is still very much available. (I’m defining “plain cheesecake” as unadorned New York style cheesecake, rich with cream cheese and usually also heavy cream or sour cream.)

New York Cheesecake from Bovella’s Pastry Shoppe

Cheesecake purists have a lot of company. Ralph Bencivenga, of Bovella’s Pastry Shoppe in Westfield, New Jersey, said that his New York Cheesecake is his best-selling cheesecake and Pure Cheesecakes in Los Angeles indicates that its Original Cheesecake is one of the top 10 flavors that get ordered equally on a regular basis.

Red Velvet Cheesecake from Pure Cheesecakes

But how has cheesecake been livened up? Interesting flavors, to start. Ralph of Bovella’s Pastry Shoppe has been noticing that his Red Velvet Cheesecake is becoming more popular. Red Velvet Cheesecake is also on Pure Cheesecakes’ Top 10 Flavors list. Other unusual flavors on this list: Caramelized Pear; Pistachio; Chocolate Truffle; S’mores; and Pumpkin. Strawberry Balsamic Cheesecake — an elevated version of a traditional flavor — is Brooklyn-based Biteme Cheesecake’s best-selling flavor.

A box of Biteme Cheesecakes

And interesting sizes and shapes. To prevent their customers from suffering from massive guilt after wolfing down too much cheesecake (I can identify with this!), and also because they’re cute and festive, some cheesecake purveyors are offering mini-cheesecakes. In fact, Biteme Cheesecakes are only available in mini sizes. While Pure Cheesecakes offers cheesecakes in full sizes, this bakery specializes in small cheesecakes. Pure Cheesecakes also sells Cheesecake Pops and Cheesecake Bars. When I asked about these Cheesecake Pops, Patricia of Pure Cheesecakes said: “Our Pops have been very popular for the last five years…especially for parties and events.”

New Skete’s Chocolate Amaretto Cheesecake

Unlike delicate pastries, cheesecakes can be frozen so they can be shipped long distances, opening up interesting sales opportunities. If you don’t live near a Cheesecake Factory, fear not. You can order a Cheesecake Factory cheesecake from Harry & David. And earlier this year, The New York Times described a monastic order in upstate New York that supports itself from sales of its cheesecakes, which are shipped direct to consumers. These New Skete Cheesecakes are available in 13 different flavors.

I’m dreaming of cheesecake!

Tagged Bitme Cheesecakes, Bovella's Pastry Shoppe, Cheesecake Factory, Cheesecake Pops, Harry & David, New Skete Cheesecakes, Pure Cheesecakes

Nov 23 2013

4 Comments

Blondies, Brownies

Brownies and Blondies

Samples of “Walnut Witches” at the Fat Witch Bakery

Brownie purists may debate the finer points of dense, fudgy brownies versus brownies that are more cake-like. But I think this detracts from the wider issue—the brownie versus blondie match-up.

Before I started doing brownie/blondie research for this posting, I assumed that brownies would trounce blondies in a popularity contest. As you’ll see below, that isn’t the case.

Blondies from Sweet Sam’s Baking Company

Sweet Sam’s Baking Company offers a variety of baked goods—including coffee cake, loaf cakes, cookies, brownies, as well as blondies. Two brownies are in the line-up: a Walnut Brownie and the more popular Chocolate Chunk Brownie. Interestingly, over the last year, sales of the Blondie were double that of the Chocolate Chunk Brownie. And blondies have always been ahead of brownies in sales.

White Chocolate Raspberry Brownies from the Cake Sculptress

As the name implies, the Cake Sculptress specializes in 3D/sculpted cakes. However for brownie and blondie fans, 11 types of brownies and 5 types of blondies are available. The three best-selling brownies are: Triple Chocolate; Mint Chocolate Chip; and White Chocolate Raspberry. The Cake Sculptress sells more Toasted Coconut Chocolate Chip Blondies than brownies. Rebecca Goss, of the Cake Sculptress, speculates that people have become a bit disenchanted with brownies, seeing them as ordinary, though tasty, and nothing more. However, she thinks blondies will never take the place of brownies because of the nostalgia and comfort offered by brownies. Rebecca relayed an interesting brownie trend: brownie wedding cakes made a brief appearance as an alternative to traditional wedding cakes.

Grandma's Mix-Up Bars from Broadway Baker

A “Grandma’s Mix-Up Bar” from Broadway Baker

The Broadway Baker’s “Grandma’s Mix-Up Bars” sport a graham cracker crust made from homemade graham crackers. Perched on top of this crust: Belgian chocolate, unsweetened coconut, and crushed pecans. A sweet cream is then drizzled over everything. (For purposes of this post, I’ll take liberties and classify these bars as blondies.) Jim Osorno of the Broadway Baker reports that Grandma’s Mix-Up Bars are more popular than his brownie offering, “Major Brownies.” Also see the Dessert Surveillance Broadway Baker posting.

Wrapped “Witches” at the Fat Witch Bakery

In keeping with the whimsical witch theme, at the Fat Witch Bakery, brownies and blondies are known as “Witches.” Witch types include: Fat Witch (regular brownie); Red Witch (brownie with dried cherries); Java Witch (brownie with cappuccino chocolate chips); Snow Witch (with white chocolate instead of chocolate); and the Blonde Witch (blondie). To keep Fat Witch devotees from suffering from too much guilt, a few of the Witches are available in small sizes, known as Baby Witches. Seasonal flavors round out the offerings: a Pumpkin Witch and Pecan Bars. And new Witch types are planned. Pat Helding, the founder and CEO of the Fat Witch Bakery has an interesting take on the brownie versus blondie debate: Blondies are a New York City thing so brownies will still get more points in a national popularity contest.

And of the companies above, 3 of the 4 are based in New York City, although they ship nationwide. The Cake Sculptress is based in Massachusetts. What does this mean? I need to ask these questions of more companies outside of the New York City area. Stay tuned for Part 2 of Brownies and Blondies.

And in the meantime, I have an important decision to make: I have a brownie and a blondie in my freezer. Which one do I scarf down now? Hmmmm…..

Tagged Broadway Baker, Brownie Wedding Cake, Cake Sculptress, Fat WItch, Sweet Sam's

Nov 10 2013

2 Comments

Dessert Entrepreneurs, Pie

Four & Twenty Blackbirds

Four & Twenty Blackbirds Pie Shop and Cafe

What happens when Finance major and a sculptor go into business together? For sisters Melissa and Emily Ehlsen, the result is the acclaimed Brooklyn, New York pie shop and café, Four & Twenty Blackbirds.

Meliss and Emily Ehlsen

At the 92^nd Street Y in Manhattan, the sister demonstrated how they make pie crust for their pies and “spilled the beans” about their business and how they got started.

Melissa and Emily were raised in South Dakota and come from a food and entrepreneurial background – their father an independent farmer, and their mother and aunts, restauranteurs. Their grandmother baked pies for the family restaurant. (In keeping with the family connection, their mother was in the audience at the 92^nd Street Y lecture/demonstration.) After pursuing different careers, the sisters wanted to start a business together, and as they put it “food is what we know.” They started with custom pies, baked in their apartment. Then they set up their Brooklyn pie shop as a neighborhood coffee shop, but with pie. They didn’t know of other places like it.

Pies and More Pies

At Four & Twenty Blackbirds slices of pie are served up, and a limited number of whole pies are available. Melissa and Emily work closely with local, organic orchards and only use fruit that’s in season. That’s why cherry pie makes a very brief appearance on the menu – cherry season is short. The fall line-up includes: Salted Caramel Apple; Bourbon Pear Crumble; Brown Butter Pumpkin; Malted Chocolate Pecan; Salty Honey; Birch Beer Float; and Lemon Chess.

A Slice of Salted Caramel Apple Pie

A Four & Twenty Blackbirds cookbook was published at the end of October 2013. Interestingly, the cookbook includes some recipes for pies that aren’t available in the pie shop/café. Chiffon pies, for example, aren’t sturdy enough to withstand the rigors of the shop.

While it’s a Brooklyn-based business, the pies can also be found in Manhattan (the Untitled Café at the Whitney Museum) as well as in the Western Catskills in Upstate New York (the Table on Ten restaurant).

These are a few of the pie crust making tips divulged by Melissa and Emily:

— The best butter to use for pie crusts has a butterfat content of at least 82%

— For working in the butter, a flat bottom bowl is optimal

— Adding a bit of cider vinegar make the crust tender

— They prefer to use a tapered rolling pin, with thin edges

I’ve been afraid to tackle pie, but I think I’ll give it a go!

Tagged Four & Twenty Blackbirds, Pie Crust

Dessert Surveillance

the business behind what's delicious

Author Archives: Marciam

Babka

Carrot Cake

Red Velvet Cake and Cupcakes

Muffins

Brownies and Blondies – Part 2

Retired Desserts

Cheesecake

Brownies and Blondies

Four & Twenty Blackbirds